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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#1 Posted : 12 January 2015 11:06:03(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Hello,
here, I present my conversion of my Märklin ÖBB 1020.02 to LED head and rear lights. There is also a new mainboard to plug the motor, LED-boards, buffer capacitor and the decoder.

I converted this model a few years ago from analog to digital with Ersu LokPilot V4.0 DCC, later I changed the motor to HLA 5-pole and a few days ago I equipped ball bearing to the motor shield.

LED head lights
There are original spare parts for the 3922x-series which may be compatible with my 3159. But I decided to create my own LED board:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

To have enough space and good light separation, I sawed the fiber optic into two parts.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

LED head light assembled

UserPostedImage

Head light with LED
UserPostedImage

Rear light with LED
UserPostedImage

The LED head light board got a micro plug. I created this with socket board and shrink hose.
UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

Mainboard
UserPostedImage

The main board has sockets for the two head light LED boards (LV and LH), for the decoder (8-pole plug), for the buffer capacitor (switchable for programming), the motor and for the cabin lights. There is space for four resistors for the LED head lights, too. I used 2.4kOhm, but I will replace them with 5.1kOhm, because the light is still very bright.

UserPostedImage

[IMG][/IMG]

The electric GND connection is secured by the mass cable to the motor but also by the screw on the mainboard, which holds the mainboard in place. I use the same holder which is formerly used by the driving direction switch.

UserPostedImage

For this, I soldered a shim on the circuit board, connected to the black cable connector of the decoder socket. You can see the shim on the middle of the left side of the circuit board.

Not yet ready are the AUX amplifier, the cable for AUX3/4 on the decoder, the buffer capacitor and the AUX2 is not yet connected (purple). Also, the second head light LED board is not yet soldered!

Edited by user 23 October 2015 20:52:05(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 6 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline mmervine  
#2 Posted : 12 January 2015 13:33:37(UTC)
mmervine

United States   
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,884
Location: Keene, NH
Fantastic job!
Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss
http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mmervine
Offline jvuye  
#3 Posted : 12 January 2015 16:14:28(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 Go to Quoted Post
Hello,
here, I present my conversion of my Märklin ÖBB 1020.02 to LED head and rear lights. There is also a new mainboard to plug the motor, LED-boards, buffer capacitor and the decoder.

I converted this model a few years ago from analog to digital with Ersu LokPilot V4.0 DCC, later I changed the motor to HLA 5-pole and a few days ago I equipped ball bearing to the motor shield.
.....
Not yet ready are the AUX amplifier, the cable for AUX3/4 on the decoder, the buffer capacitor and the AUX2 is not yet connected (purple). Also, the second head light LED board is not yet soldered!


Excellent job as usual!
Congratulations
I like the idea of mounting the connectors "tilted" to provide a little more clearance!
That's an idea I will definitely use (As you know, plagiarism is the sincerest form of flattery....BigGrin )
Now comes my questions:

1)what are you planning to use the AUX3/4 outputs for?
Telex? Lifting pantographs?

2) what technique did you use to cleanly cut the light conducting insert?
Small table circular saw?

Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#4 Posted : 12 January 2015 17:37:17(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Hello Jacques,
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Excellent job as usual!
Congratulations

Thanks!Smile

Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post

I like the idea of mounting the connectors "tilted" to provide a little more clearance!
That's an idea I will definitely use (As you know, plagiarism is the sincerest form of flattery....BigGrin )
Now comes my questions:

1)what are you planning to use the AUX3/4 outputs for?
Telex? Lifting pantographs?

2) what technique did you use to cleanly cut the light conducting insert?
Small table circular saw?


AUX3/4 will be used to switch the driver's cab light:
UserPostedImage

To saw the fiber optic, I used a standard jigsaw. Afterwards, I polished the surface with a polish tool in my drill press until it was mostly free of scratches.

Regards,
Moritz
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline jvuye  
#5 Posted : 12 January 2015 18:48:28(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Thanks....more good good ideas !!😁
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Alberto Pedrini  
#6 Posted : 12 January 2015 21:29:16(UTC)
Alberto Pedrini

Italy   
Joined: 02/07/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,448
Location: Italy
Don't forget the red light on the cab, if you want to do something other.

obb

Only Roco makes the correct lights... Crying scroll down the page

http://www.marklinfan.net/obb1020.htm
Alberto

Marklinfan Club Italia
www.marklinfan.net
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Alberto Pedrini
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#7 Posted : 13 January 2015 08:05:00(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by: Alberto Pedrini Go to Quoted Post
Don't forget the red light on the cab, if you want to do something other.
...
Only Roco makes the correct lights... Crying scroll down the page

Hello Alberto,
I know, that the Märklin 1020.02 is not very true to original. But that doesn't matter, I own this loco since over 30 years! Nothing else matters.

I don't know, for what the red light on the cab is used for, it is not used in German railway signal book. It would be possible, to drill a hole there, because there is a pit on the Märklin model. It would be easy, to drill the hole very precise. But then, my decoder has not enough AUX ports.

About Roco, sorry, I rather like heavy metal locos. I bought an E94 yesterday - Märklin 39221 with C-Sinus motor - a dream!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#8 Posted : 13 January 2015 08:28:53(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Next LED board for the other side:
UserPostedImage

Some details must be resoldered, not yet finished...

Edited by user 23 October 2015 20:53:12(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline foumaro  
#9 Posted : 13 January 2015 08:29:01(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,420
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Alberto Pedrini Go to Quoted Post
Don't forget the red light on the cab, if you want to do something other.
...
Only Roco makes the correct lights... Crying scroll down the page

Hello Alberto,
I know, that the Märklin 1020.02 is not very true to original. But that doesn't matter, I own this loco since over 30 years! Nothing else matters.

I don't know, for what the red light on the cab is used for, it is not used in German railway signal book. It would be possible, to drill a hole there, because there is a pit on the Märklin model. It would be easy, to drill the hole very precise. But then, my decoder has not enough AUX ports.

About Roco, sorry, I rather like heavy metal locos. I bought an E94 yesterday - Märklin 39221 with C-Sinus motor - a dream!


For the heavy metals,i am with you.ThumpUp ,but please do not drill this beauty.Scared
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#10 Posted : 16 January 2015 08:40:48(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Here, some additional pictures after finishing the second LED board and fitting the mainboard into the loco

I had to change the position of the mainboard, otherwise, the connectors and cable from motor and LED board wouldn't fit with the case mounted on the chassis:

UserPostedImage

Here, You can see the buffer capacitor with 1.100µF, enough to buffer short power breaks:

UserPostedImage

On the left, the micro plug for the motor, below the same for the LED board. The micro switch is to disable the buffer capacitor, which is necessary for programming the decoder.

UserPostedImage

On the right the single plug is from the buffer capacitor, below the 3-pole plug from the LED board:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage


The loco is now ready to run. The last step will be to enable AUX3/4 for the drivers cab lights.

Edited by user 23 October 2015 20:56:32(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 3 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#11 Posted : 23 October 2015 20:58:18(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Restored the pictures, because the formerly used links were broken.
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