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vassthan		#1 Posted : 12 December 2014 11:34:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		I have one marklin DB41 steam loco (3082). I tried to change the motor with permanent magnet. I unscrewed the motor shield but the brushes came out. I put them back in place again. But now ... When I give power to the motor, the two strings that holds the brushes, worms up, the motor begins to smoke and after some seconds the motor stops. I tried to change with new brushes but still the same. I do not know if the problem is to the motor shield, or to the brushes, or to the rotor. If someone can help ....
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RayF		#2 Posted : 12 December 2014 11:47:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Hi Vassthan, Are you trying to run the loco in analogue mode with a permanent magnet instead of the original field coils? You have not mentioned what else you changed. You need to replace the analogue reversing unit with a decoder so that the motor is fed with DC current.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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vassthan		#3 Posted : 12 December 2014 12:30:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		Originally Posted by: RayF Hi Vassthan, Are you trying to run the loco in analogue mode with a permanent magnet instead of the original field coils? You have not mentioned what else you changed. You need to replace the analogue reversing unit with a decoder so that the motor is fed with DC current. No. I haven't connected the decoder yet. I was trying to drive the motor with 12V DC current to the poles of motor shield
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RayF		#4 Posted : 12 December 2014 12:46:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Originally Posted by: vassthan Originally Posted by: RayF Hi Vassthan, Are you trying to run the loco in analogue mode with a permanent magnet instead of the original field coils? You have not mentioned what else you changed. You need to replace the analogue reversing unit with a decoder so that the motor is fed with DC current. No. I haven't connected the decoder yet. I was trying to drive the motor with 12V DC current to the poles of motor shield OK, good. The more detail you can give us the easier we can work out what is wrong. Did the loco work before you took it apart? Have you tried turning the motor by hand to see if it is free? When you apply power does the motor run slowly or fast?
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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vassthan		#5 Posted : 12 December 2014 13:10:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		Originally Posted by: RayF Originally Posted by: vassthan Originally Posted by: RayF Hi Vassthan, Are you trying to run the loco in analogue mode with a permanent magnet instead of the original field coils? You have not mentioned what else you changed. You need to replace the analogue reversing unit with a decoder so that the motor is fed with DC current. No. I haven't connected the decoder yet. I was trying to drive the motor with 12V DC current to the poles of motor shield OK, good. The more detail you can give us the easier we can work out what is wrong. Did the loco work before you took it apart? Have you tried turning the motor by hand to see if it is free? When you apply power does the motor run slowly or fast? 1. The loco works fine before changing the magnet. 2. The motor works for a little and then starts smoking and finally stops. 3. The motor rotates free with hands. Thanks!
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RayF		#6 Posted : 12 December 2014 13:19:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		It sounds like it may be drawing too much current. This sometimes happens when there is too much oil or dirt on the commutator of the motor. Make sure it is clean of all oil inside the motor, and use a fine point like a toothpick to clean the gaps between the commutator segments. Finally, apply one small drop of oil on each of the two motor bearings.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
1 user liked this useful post by RayF		franciscohg
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vassthan		#7 Posted : 13 December 2014 08:33:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		Originally Posted by: RayF It sounds like it may be drawing too much current. This sometimes happens when there is too much oil or dirt on the commutator of the motor. Make sure it is clean of all oil inside the motor, and use a fine point like a toothpick to clean the gaps between the commutator segments. Finally, apply one small drop of oil on each of the two motor bearings. Well, I think that the problem is with the commutator. But I don't know how to check it.
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RayF		#8 Posted : 13 December 2014 10:11:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		The commutator is made of segments of copper with fine gaps between them. Give it a good clean with alcohol or something similar, and then use a toothpick to clean the gaps. Then put it all back together again and try it out.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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vassthan		#9 Posted : 13 December 2014 18:09:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		Originally Posted by: RayF The commutator is made of segments of copper with fine gaps between them. Give it a good clean with alcohol or something similar, and then use a toothpick to clean the gaps. Then put it all back together again and try it out. I think that the problem is with the 3 wires connected to each of 3 poles of commutator. If I can see well, 1 or 2 of wires maybe haven't connection with poles. I don't know if I can re-connect them with solder iron. Is it an easy work?
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RayF		#10 Posted : 13 December 2014 18:28:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Originally Posted by: vassthan Originally Posted by: RayF The commutator is made of segments of copper with fine gaps between them. Give it a good clean with alcohol or something similar, and then use a toothpick to clean the gaps. Then put it all back together again and try it out. I think that the problem is with the 3 wires connected to each of 3 poles of commutator. If I can see well, 1 or 2 of wires maybe haven't connection with poles. I don't know if I can re-connect them with solder iron. Is it an easy work? Are you sure? I have over a hundred locos with this type of motor and never seen damage like that. If it is damaged then your best bet would be to get a 5 pole conversion kit for your loco and not bother with the old armature.
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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vassthan		#11 Posted : 13 December 2014 20:29:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 28 Location: Athens		Well, Now I'm sure that the 3 poles commutator has at least 1 wire that isn't connected right. But I don't know if this is the beginning problem. I' ll try to re-connect the "free wire" with solder iron.
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Webmaster		#12 Posted : 13 December 2014 21:17:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,161		I wish you good luck on reconnecting the wire, these are very tiny so make sure you don't burn the insulation towards the "rotor coil" itself. I myself would get a conversion kit as Ray suggested, but it always feels better if you manage to solve a problem yourself...
		Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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jvuye		#13 Posted : 13 December 2014 22:19:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,881 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: vassthan Well, Now I'm sure that the 3 poles commutator has at least 1 wire that isn't connected right. But I don't know if this is the beginning problem. I' ll try to re-connect the "free wire" with solder iron. If you post a picture of the lok and the rotor in question , I may be able to get you the right part(s) for your case! I have literally hundreds of them, as a legacy of many many conversions. No need to futz around! Cheers
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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