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Armando		#1 Posted : 31 March 2014 18:24:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Hello all, I have been trying in vain to remove the body on my BR 39, Märklin 39390, in order to install the smoke unit. I followed the instructions, as per the operations manual. However, after removing the 4 screws, as per the diagram on page 29, it is still not possible to lift the cabin. Maybe there is an additional step, which is not shown in the manual, that needs to be taken before being able to remove the body. Has someone on this forum ever open this locomotive or any of its successors? Here's a link to the operations manual. Page 29. http://medienpdb.maerkli.../1/pdf/39390_betrieb.pdf (In order to open the manual, the link address needs to be copied and pasted onto the browser field) Thank you and best regards, Edited by user 31 March 2014 22:12:34(UTC)  | Reason: Repasted link
		Best regards, Armando García
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kbvrod		#2 Posted : 31 March 2014 19:42:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA		Hi Armando,all, The link did not work for me.can't you insert the smoke unit through the stack? Dr Dirt
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Renato		#3 Posted : 31 March 2014 19:54:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC) Posts: 976 Location: Gorizia, Italy		Hi Kevin, Copy and paste the link in your browser (Märklin does not allow to reach their site clicking on the link with the mouse and only the Märklin logo is displayed). Cheers Renato
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biedmatt		#4 Posted : 31 March 2014 20:17:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		The screws are clearly shown in the instructions. I'm guessing you removed the right four screws. Probably something stuck, like two painted surfaces sticking together. Pull harder.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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steventrain		#5 Posted : 31 March 2014 20:47:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,606 Location: United Kingdom		Originally Posted by: kbvrod Hi Armando,all, The link did not work for me.can't you insert the smoke unit through the stack? Dr Dirt Renato said 'Copy and paste the link in your browser' the link below Quote: http://medienpdb.maerklin.de/product_files/1/pdf/39390_betrieb.pdf
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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kbvrod		#6 Posted : 31 March 2014 21:17:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA		Hi all, How 21st century of M,.......... I proved links here all the time.As was provided above.Just a wee bit cranky I guess,... D
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Armando		#7 Posted : 31 March 2014 22:08:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Originally Posted by: kbvrod Hi Armando,all, The link did not work for me.can't you insert the smoke unit through the stack? Dr Dirt No, it is not possible, as it is the tapered smoke unit, that has to be inserted from under the stack. And in order to do this, the body needs to be removed.
		Best regards, Armando García
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Janne75		#8 Posted : 31 March 2014 23:29:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2012(UTC) Posts: 2,550 Location: Finland		Hi Armando, Does the locomotive body move at all? What about the cabin, does it move at all? When I see the exposing diagram on page 36 it is clear for me that there are those four screws that hold the body/boiler. As you have removed them already you should just try to lift the cabin harder and before doing this I recommend that you try to move it also little sideways to get it to loose, but don't use much force for this. There can be some tabs or pins which can hold it too, who knows. I will get this 39390 BR 39 Insider and also 37915 BR 03.10 Insider after some weeks/around one month. 39390 is mint like new, but 37915 has some broken parts and I will fix it. Please let us all know how you will progress with this 39390 loco body removal as I want to install smoke unit too, if there is not one already. Edit: It looks like there is a groove in the loco tender/cabin and you should just try to get it to loose and then lift it up. Look at the photos on pages 29 and 36. Good luck! Regards, Janne
		Märklin H0 digital layout. I have analog and digital H0 Collection. Rolling stock mostly from era I, II, III and IV. Märklin 1 gauge beginner.
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Shamu		#9 Posted : 01 April 2014 06:34:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		How do, I could be wrong but from what I can make out in the manual and in the exploded parts view http://www.maerklin.de/s...&artikelnummer=39390 it looks as though it may be binding on the "tanks ?" that protrude thru the footplates along the sides of the boiler. Maybe try removing the cab first ? Just a thought. So had to advise "brut force" without seeing the loco in front of me. Best of luck.
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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steventrain		#10 Posted : 01 April 2014 17:55:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,606 Location: United Kingdom		I look at page 29 of 39390. It show '1' removed four screw and '3' removed cab and body. Where is '2'?, Cant find it.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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Armando		#11 Posted : 01 April 2014 23:55:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Originally Posted by: steventrain I look at page 29 of 39390. It show '1' removed four screw and '3' removed cab and body. Where is '2'?, Cant find it. Hi Steven, Yes, that was one of the first things that I noticed. However, it is possible to understand that 1) you remove the screws, 2) Remove the cab, and 3) remove the boiler. The problem is that after removing the 4 screws, the cab will not come off.
		Best regards, Armando García
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Shamu		#12 Posted : 02 April 2014 00:50:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Morning Armando, Ok, this is purely based on looking at the exploded parts view I provided above (view at 300%) and my old Piko BR01. Try gently applying outward pressure on the inside of the cab as this has to come off first, there "may" be locating tabs at floor level on both sides that have to be released. As to the boiler, looking at the exploded view I can see 7 locating "pins" and depending how the screw holes are aligned that could be another 4, so that's 11 possibly tight'ish connections that need gentle persuasion. Is there any movement at all in any direction ?
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Armando		#13 Posted : 02 April 2014 17:06:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Originally Posted by: Shamu Morning Armando, Is there any movement at all in any direction ? No, unfortunately, it is rock-solid
		Best regards, Armando García
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Shamu		#14 Posted : 03 April 2014 00:40:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Originally Posted by: Armando Originally Posted by: Shamu Morning Armando, Is there any movement at all in any direction ? No, unfortunately, it is rock-solid Hummmm, This is starting to become a real worry, mainly as the "worm drive gear" is supposed to be greased every 20 hours. I'm trying to think what I've got that is close but coming up a blank ATM. Need to think on this a bit more. Will see if I can come up with something in a few hours. So sorry Armando that this is happening, chin up. Arh, just to clarify, did you buy it new or is it second hand ? Just curious in case a previous owner did something silly. Also just to rule out the really stupid (yes I know there shouldn't be one) there isn't a plug in one of the dome tops is there ?
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Shamu		#15 Posted : 03 April 2014 05:11:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		OK, Grasping at straws here BUT, if you look at the photo (red circled bits) it looks like tabs "may" hook thru and onto here from the boiler. OR maybe slide boiler forward (or backward) then up it would only be 3mm at a guess. See if they are visible from underneath ? If so and there are tab hooks try a bit of gentle persuasion. Beyond that I'll have to un-crate a few of my newer loco's to see what I've got that's similar, though I don't think my BR 03.10's are that similar but who knows Sorry Armando, I've looked thru all my loco's and nothing I have comes even remotely close in the "pull it to bits" department. Hope the advice above is the trick ? ARH, then there is still the issue of those locating pins, This has me stumped. Ok, the locating pins will stop forward/backwards movement so those little red circled recesses must be for small hook tabs, you might (if their there) need to use a small screwdriver to tease them out, use a toothpick to slip into the gap then do the other 3. It the only thing that makes sense to me. Edited by user 03 April 2014 12:26:33(UTC)  | Reason: Final thoughts Shamu attached the following image(s):
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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waorb		#16 Posted : 03 April 2014 15:10:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 868 Location: Brazil		Hello Armando! This is not a solution, but maybe you could find a clue in this link: http://www.railroad24.de/modellbahnbilder/bilder.php?id=1596 It shows an already openned BR 39 in good detailed photos... Good luck. Cheers, Walter
		WWW BLOG
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Shamu		#17 Posted : 04 April 2014 03:13:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Thanks for the link to those photos Walter, Starting to wonder if in usual Marklin instruction manual fashion that that boiler AND the catwalk/cab base don't come off as a unit ? Although its a beautiful loco there is nowhere on the boiler you can firmly hold it without risking doing serious damage. If it is like my old Piko BR 01 than that is the way it comes off, from memory it had 2 tongues that held it on after the screws came out. Just have to wait for Armando to report back before damaging any more brain cells.
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Armando		#18 Posted : 04 April 2014 04:18:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Thanks to everyone who posted his comments and suggestions in response to my question. The pictures that were posted by Walter (obrigadinho!) were most enlightening. And Shamu was right: As it turned out, the boiler and the cabin are to be removed together by lifting the boiler. I pulled firmly at the very front of the boiler, on both sides, where the walkway tapers off towards the front. The front end of the boiler could be lifted off the chassis, and I was finally able to remove the body, slowly and carefully, in order not to brake any of the separately applied parts, which are many, and fragile on this locomotive. Obviously, the Märklin instructions are flawed. They show that the cabin is to be removed first. Luckily, I didn't try to pull it off too strongly, because otherwise, I could have broken off the roof part. My warmest thanks again to all. I am now proceeding to install the smoke unit, and check for the level of Trix grease in the gearbox.
		Best regards, Armando García
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Shamu		#19 Posted : 04 April 2014 04:39:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Originally Posted by: Armando My warmest thanks again to all. I am now proceeding to install the smoke unit, and check for the level of Trix grease in the gearbox. Fantastic Armando, That was my major concern for you if no solution was found, putting grease in the worm drive every 20 hours. For something that MUST be done on a regular basis not providing clear instructions for disassembly could be disastrous for someone. Glad the penny finally dropped. All the best, now you can enjoy that 39. Perhaps someone fluent in German could contact Marklin about this issue and ask them at the very least to "modify" the on-line PDF so at least the solution is somewhat easier to find for those other owners of this fine loco that maybe don't go to Forums for their information ?
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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river6109		#20 Posted : 04 April 2014 04:40:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,716 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Armando, I've looked at the detailed photos and one can say there has been a lot of work gone into it to reproduce it like that. One thing I would like to see from Märklin is to use the spare room especially with all the electronic circuit board (waste of space) to replace it with metal to make the loco even heavier. John
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
		WWW
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Armando		#21 Posted : 04 April 2014 05:57:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Originally Posted by: Shamu Perhaps someone fluent in German could contact Marklin about this issue and ask them at the very least to "modify" the on-line PDF so at least the solution is somewhat easier to find for those other owners of this fine loco that maybe don't go to Forums for their information ? Hi again, I actually wrote to the Märklin Service earlier this week to ask them to look at the instruction manual and check that a mistake had not been made. Their reply was that of course I had to follow the instructions to the letter and remove the cabin first. They even "advised" me to check that I had removed the right screws. I hope that somehow, somebody will be curious enough to follow up on my question and that the manual eventually be corrected. Cheers!
		Best regards, Armando García
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foumaro		#22 Posted : 04 April 2014 09:17:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 4,420 Location: Attiki Athens Greece		Originally Posted by: Armando Originally Posted by: steventrain I look at page 29 of 39390. It show '1' removed four screw and '3' removed cab and body. Where is '2'?, Cant find it. Hi Steven, Yes, that was one of the first things that I noticed. However, it is possible to understand that 1) you remove the screws, 2) Remove the cab, and 3) remove the boiler. The problem is that after removing the 4 screws, the cab will not come off. I have opened this locomotive twice to oil her,it is impossible to make a mistake,there are only 4 screws under the locomotive.I removed the screws and i remove the boiler and the cab together in one piece i do not seperate them.I have just do it in a few seconds now to be sure for what i am saying.I hope i help you,regards from Greece.
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biedmatt		#23 Posted : 04 April 2014 13:33:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		I installed a smoke generator in my 39393 and upgraded to a LoSnd V4. I do not remember anything being special about opening it up. If the instructions were wrong, I would have remembered it. Something has the pieces stuck together. This has happened to me before. Perhaps some paint had not fully cured, or some substance during assembly. Try gently prying with a fine blade screwdriver between the two mating surfaces (post #4: "pull harder"), or send it back and let Marklin deal with it.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Armando		#24 Posted : 04 April 2014 14:46:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/07/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,352 Location: Houston, Texas		Originally Posted by: foumaro Originally Posted by: Armando Originally Posted by: steventrain I look at page 29 of 39390. It show '1' removed four screw and '3' removed cab and body. Where is '2'?, Cant find it. Hi Steven, Yes, that was one of the first things that I noticed. However, it is possible to understand that 1) you remove the screws, 2) Remove the cab, and 3) remove the boiler. The problem is that after removing the 4 screws, the cab will not come off. I have opened this locomotive twice to oil her,it is impossible to make a mistake,there are only 4 screws under the locomotive.I removed the screws and i remove the boiler and the cab together in one piece i do not seperate them.I have just do it in a few seconds now to be sure for what i am saying.I hope i help you,regards from Greece. Thank you Foumaro. However, I tried following the instructions, as per the Marklin booklet. The instructions seemed clear: First remove the screws, then remove the cab, and then remove the boiler. However, the cab would not come off. The same is shown in the explosion drawing of the locomotive. It wasn't until I saw the pictures in the link published by Walter that I realized that it wasn't necessary to remove the cab to lift the boiler.
		Best regards, Armando García
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Gert-Jan		#25 Posted : 09 January 2015 09:20:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC) Posts: 777 Location: Netherlands		Originally Posted by: Armando Thank you Foumaro. However, I tried following the instructions, as per the Marklin booklet. The instructions seemed clear: First remove the screws, then remove the cab, and then remove the boiler. However, the cab would not come off. The same is shown in the explosion drawing of the locomotive. It wasn't until I saw the pictures in the link published by Walter that I realized that it wasn't necessary to remove the cab to lift the boiler. As often with manuals, it is challenging to get it readable for all situations and interpretation Page 29 should have been about removing/lifting the whole body. My thoughts are they shouldn't have depicted the removal of the cabin at this page. I 'guess' (guessing is basically wrong from start) the procedure steps should have been (from left to right): 1. Removing the 4 screws 2. Lifting the whole body 3. Remove the Cabin (optional) Anyway, I had the same 'stuck' issue with my 39644 BR 64 'Bubikopf' The body didn't just simply lift off as it was 'glued' on the chassis.
		Mosty era III DB.
		WWW
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RayF		#26 Posted : 09 January 2015 10:11:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Sometimes it requires a bit of force to seperate parts assembled at the factory. When I tried to remove the top of the tender on my 37972 Br34 it was so well held together that when it "let go" I broke the tie bar connecting the loco to the tender. I had to order the part and then spent the best part of a couple of hours replacing it. Not an experience I would care to repeat!
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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SteamNut		#27 Posted : 09 January 2015 18:05:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488		As a side note the lubricating instructions says that the axes and the side rods should be oiled after 40 hrs. First time that I have seen that the side rods need to lubricated. I added the Marklin smoke unit to mine and it is a very tight fit because it rubs towards the front of the lok. Also don't push it up all the way leave it a little down to make sure makes contact with the copper strip. I run this lok on a analog system and it really does not smoke. I suspect if I would use a Seuthe #20 it would work better because the voltage rating is lower to make it work. When I apply full voltage on my work bench the Marklin does work nicely and would most likely work great on a digital system. It's a great model and runs great on my M track - Fred Edited by user 09 January 2015 22:31:13(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Token		#28 Posted : 10 January 2015 00:47:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 300 Location: Sydney, NSW		Hi all, at the risk of asking a dumb question and for my own reference (as I have two of these beautiful machines), the exploded diagram appears to indicate the smoke box cover can be removed independently. Could the smoke generator have been installed from the front or is it too large to access? Regards, Michael.
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SteamNut		#29 Posted : 10 January 2015 02:06:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488		It's really not that bad once you remove the body just a tight fit remember you have to push it some force so the front access won't do you any good.
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