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Offline charles Sharpe  
#1 Posted : 03 March 2014 14:20:19(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
Hello.

I have a small problem. My 74920 level crossing has stopped working. I have checked all the wires to make sure none have come loose and all seems well. I think it must be the solenoids died I have never left a train on the crossing so I am a bit baffled. I have just been on Lok shop web site and too my surprise the item is no longer made.

Charles.
CHARLES SHARPE
Offline biedmatt  
#2 Posted : 03 March 2014 14:45:33(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Are the crossing lights coming on? I would think they and the solenoids are connected in parallel and no one is dependent on another. Two solenoids failing at the same time seems an unlikely problem.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline charles Sharpe  
#3 Posted : 03 March 2014 14:51:44(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
Hello.

No. Both set of lights are not coming on or the barriers coming down.
CHARLES SHARPE
Offline biedmatt  
#4 Posted : 03 March 2014 16:13:47(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I think you have a problem other than a failure of the crossing. I can't see all four elements (edit: six elements- 4 lights and 2 solenoids) failing at the same time. If this is like my M track version, you could test it by removing each half, connecting yellow to the terminal on the side of the half and connecting brown to the contact that makes with the track piece. After that, then you need to find if it's the yellow or brown that is open on your circuit and preventing voltage from operating the crossing.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline charles Sharpe  
#5 Posted : 03 March 2014 16:18:13(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
Hello.

Thanks for you reply. Wiring is not my best subject could you brake that down for mess I can understand what you are saying.

Charles.
CHARLES SHARPE
Offline biedmatt  
#6 Posted : 03 March 2014 16:41:32(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I am going to go very basic here, please do not get upset if it seems I am trying to make it oversimplified.
The circuit for this device, like all electrical devices needs two connections. One to plus and one to minus, or if an AC circuit, one to hot and one to neutral (sometimes mistakenly called ground). The terminal in the side of each road section goes to yellow. This is plus or neutral depending on the type of power used to operate the device, AC or DC. The metal clip in the road pieces that connects to the railroad track center piece goes to the insulated rail. This rail is identified with red paint near the rail. Your rolling stock wheels then connect this insulated rail to the unisulated rail which goes to brown. The wheels are your "switch" just like a light switch on your wall. They make the connection closing (completing) the circuit. I would remove the mounting screws and pull the road sections away from the center track section. Leave the yellow connection to each road half. Now take a jumper from the center rail contact on each piece of road section to your track bed, not the insulated rail. If it works, you have a good connection to yellow, but your connection to brown is bad. If it does not work, you have a bad connection between the road halves and yellow. Test this with a jumper from your yellow on your transformer to the connection on each half of your road section. Leave them loose from the center rail secion keeping your jumper from each road section to the road bed. If this works, then remount the road sections and run a railroad car across the track section. Leave your temporary jumper to yellow intact. If this works, then you have a bad connection between the road sections and yellow.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline charles Sharpe  
#7 Posted : 03 March 2014 18:09:13(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
Hello Matt.

Just to clarify that the jumper you talking about. are we saying a piece of wire striped both ends or striped one end and spade on the other end.

Charles.
CHARLES SHARPE
Offline biedmatt  
#8 Posted : 03 March 2014 18:42:33(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: charles Sharpe Go to Quoted Post
Hello Matt.

Just to clarify that the jumper you talking about. are we saying a piece of wire striped both ends or striped one end and spade on the other end.

Charles.


Exactly. If you have something with an alligator lead, even better. Basically you are replacing either the yellow or brown connections with the jumper trying to decide when it works, isolating the problem. It is either no yellow to the road sections, no brown to the track bed. Or no connection from the isolated rail and then on to the connection where the road section connects to the rail section in the middle. This last I would consider highly unlikely since it can only be disturbed by removing a piece of the crossing. Jump around each until it works, then figure out what is wrong with that part of the circuit. If you have two power sources and use a common neutral (brown) it may simply be the browns on both power supplies are no longer connected together. This or your yellow to each road section is the likely cause.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline charles Sharpe  
#9 Posted : 24 March 2014 07:26:28(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
Hello.

We have found the problem one of the very and I mean very thin wires to the solenoid has broken. Of course it would be the side that was difficult to get to. New crossing is on its way as I speak from Lok shop along with some couplings and a Veissmann mast. So as soon as it arrives and gets fixed in place and change some couplings over and change a mast my layout is finished well as much as it will always have the odd new train etc. I started it August 2006. Hope to plan my open day in May for friends have on family and people who helped to paint the back ground etc.

Charles.
CHARLES SHARPE
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by charles Sharpe
Offline charles Sharpe  
#10 Posted : 30 April 2014 05:06:33(UTC)
charles Sharpe


Joined: 21/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,432
Location: NORFOLK UK
The new level crossing was fitted yesterday. The code no hasn't changed but I have to say the crossing it self is a lot better than the old one. With the old one both the lights flashed together and as soon as the train left the senser area the barriers would go up. With the new one the lights alternate when flashing and when the train moves out of the area the barriers slowly go up. We were a bit concerned because the crossing goes over 2 parallel tracks but 1 one of the barriers goes 90 degrees to the track. So we checked to make sure the new item work in the first place then we cut the 4 wires and extended then by 300 mm. It works a treat.BigGrin BigGrin BigGrin I just have to re ballast the track leading up to the crossing and that is the last job to do before I have my 2 open days this weekend.

Charles.
CHARLES SHARPE
Offline old toot  
#11 Posted : 30 April 2014 11:14:20(UTC)
old toot

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 498
Location: christchurch, canterbury
Hi Charles
there is one critical thing about those the contact indicators must be on the same side as the grey wire underneath
i.e the contact track has a arrow mark, looking down the track with the crossing connected and the grey lead side
on the right, the contact arrows must also be on the right side for it to work,we had one of those the other day
regards
bryan old toot
were we pickit, packit and postit
Offline Dimi194  
#12 Posted : 30 April 2014 12:25:13(UTC)
Dimi194

Australia   
Joined: 21/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 382
Indeed, I got mine today, and put the grey wire on the wrong side, and the crossing didn't work!
Great looking though!
Author of the gritty sci-fi novel 'Stories of Earth: WWIII' (featuring an awesome train chase)
Avid YouTuber (XtremeTrainz and TrainzXtreme) and train person!
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