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Offline biedmatt  
#1 Posted : 18 January 2014 00:02:47(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I have chronicled my construction of this kit from start to finish in this thread. There are several builds shown at various websites, but no one has really shown in detail the problems they have encountered and how they have fixed those problems. I have tried to show all the steps in my build, warts and all. This is a large project and sometimes seemingly trivial conditions can have big consequences later. It is also hard to understand how some pieces fit and when it is a good time to install a part and when it is best to wait until later. I recommend you read this thread from beginning to end before you begin. I have gone back to past posts and have added information learned at a later date that would be best implimented in the earlier post. Although I am not sure if I have covered them all. If you have any questions, ask them here, I will answer them to the best of my ability. If a detail picture is needed so you can see how it goes together, I will try to provide the picture. It will take a long time to build and you will encounter problems that will frustrate you. It is simply the nature of the kit. I recommend you use a plastic model adhesive that provides a very strong bond. You will need to push and pull the building into shape. If your bond between pieces is not strong enough, you will most likely pull it apart at the seams. It is a big project and I applaud Trix for making it available, but keep in mind there are problems related to how parts fit that will need to be addressed and corrected. But once you have finished, you will have a structure for your layout that will inspire awe in everyone who sees it.

15 June 2015




I have been talking about this for the past couple days now.

Here is what I bought:

The basic kit (Trix #66115) and the adder (Trix 66117) to extend the basic kit to full scale

UserPostedImage


...and an assortment of Faller elevated bridges and arcades

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I bought it all from one private seller at Ebay.de. Based on what he had for sale (other structure kits too) I believe this was the start of an unfulfilled layout. The Faller pieces will go on the shelf for now until I figure out how to incorporate the station into a layout and then I will decide and build those pieces that will work.

This is the inside of the basic kit. The packaging has been a source of some grief. I'll explain that a little later.

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This is my construction surface, a former table tennis table. Tomorrow I will be cutting a board a little larger than the station footprint so I can move it around without damaging it.

UserPostedImage

I have the base pieces glued together and am in the process of building the "sandstone" walls. I intend to get the walls erected and then spray paint the structure. I will install the platform that supports the track after the walls are painted and I have fit the window and door treatments which attach from the inside. With the platform out of the way, that will be much easier.

Assembly has been slow, I expected that. I scrape all mold part line seams first after cleaning up the sprue bits once the pieces are cut from the trees. For me, part lines diminish the overall feel and pleasure I expect to get each time I see it once complete. A tedious process that pays big dividends in the end. The assembly process has been made more difficult with the packaging. All the pieces have been simply placed in the box one atop the other. This causes pieces to sag over time from the weight applied and that they are sometimes unsupported by the piece below it. This makes gluing two pieces together at a corner harder. I wish they had separated the box into compartments with dividers so all the weight was not carried by the part(s) below. I have heated some pieces with a hot air gun to straighten them. This helps a lot, but isn't perfect. So I am forced to glue the pieces In two or more gluing operations. I am not using CA glue at this point. That will come later to join two painted pieces together. I am at this step since all the plastic is naked, using Testor's Liquid cement #3502. I discovered this 35-40 years ago in my formative model building years. I like how it goes on, it dries faster than tube glue and provides a superior bond, "welding" the parts solidly together. A short time after I found it, Scale Modeller rated it their top glue, particularly noting the strength of the joint. This is important because you sometimes need to clamp a part into position due to the distortion. Without a solid bond, it would break away from the adjacent part.

This pic shows what I mean:

UserPostedImage

The gap you see should not be there, but the twist in the pieces opens the seams. So I must glue one side into place. wait for the bond to completely dry then clamp it into place and glue the next side. I have been able to pull them into shape, but it is an element to the assembly I did not anticipate. Once it is all in place, I will scrape and smooth the seams of the adjoining parts. I am lining up details on the adjoining parts and not the edges. I can fix the edges, details that do not line up from one part to another though is something I can not correct.

Dinner, back in a few...

These pieces are at each end along the long side.

UserPostedImage

You are seeing the inside and outside of two identical pieces and then a left and right side. As you can see, the "glass" is sandwiched between two parts, an inside and outside of the wall segment. I had to do a lot of scraping to get the one to fit into the other without binding. Every part is tested before gluing. These four wall segments required I install the glass sooner than I would have liked. I wished I could avoid it, but not on these four pieces nor four more that flank the sides of the center. You will see those next. I have a second kit (yep, I know, a bit crazy) so I will use the window openings in a piece from that kit to create a mask to protect the windows when I paint the walls. These parts are ready for assembly.

This is one of the center sections.

UserPostedImage

A few hours alone in just this, doesn't seem like much does it? This is where the distorted parts are causing me the slow going. The two (mirror) parts on the left and right are glued, then once the glue has set completely it is clamped against the next part and glued with another long wait.

So it is slow and a times tedious, but I am enjoying myself. So far, no challenge has been insurmountable, my attitude is subject to change though if the difficulty increases.

Edit: See edit note a bottom of post #26 before you start to assemble the center sections.

Edited by user 15 June 2015 15:08:38(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 11 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
User is suspended until 23/03/4752 12:54:35(UTC) Mulldog Lemon  
#2 Posted : 18 January 2014 00:37:35(UTC)
Mulldog Lemon

Australia   
Joined: 27/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 635
Thanks. I've seen some of the other Trix models around and wondered what they were really like.

Edited by user 20 April 2014 10:37:49(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

UserPostedImage
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Offline Janne75  
#3 Posted : 18 January 2014 00:46:59(UTC)
Janne75

Finland   
Joined: 23/03/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2,550
Location: Finland
Hi Matt,

You have a great building project with many challenges. I'm sure it will look great when it will be ready. I can only dream about this kind of large buildings as they could not fit my small layout with mostly curved tracks. And if I have some straight tracks on my mainlines they are very close to walls or are bridges so no way I can have a large station building. But life generally and with MRR is full of compromises... I can live without one, but I'm very glad you have this project and will follow your progress with great passion.

Thanks for posting this with photos ThumpUp .

Regards,
Janne

Edited by user 18 January 2014 10:56:46(UTC)  | Reason: typos

Märklin H0 digital layout. I have analog and digital H0 Collection. Rolling stock mostly from era I, II, III and IV. Märklin 1 gauge beginner.
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Offline biedmatt  
#4 Posted : 18 January 2014 01:49:20(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Waiting again for glue to dry. This gives me time to study some of the details.

I notice a groove on the inside of the walls

UserPostedImage

I am thinking this is where the "steel" structure that supports the roof will attach. Need to look deeper into that. If so, I think I'll buy some automotive pinstripe to mask these spaces. CA glue usually kicks my butt, so where I can use the Testors I will, but that glue requires an unpainted surface.

The building has the kind of details you would expect for a late Victorian/early Edwardian era building to have. Reproduced in HO, they are just sublime:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

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Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#5 Posted : 18 January 2014 03:24:54(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Waiting again for glue to dry, so I worked this

UserPostedImage

Two pieces glued together, the capstone that sits at the top of each entrance. The seam has been scraped and then sanded until the seam disappears. Once painted it will look like one solid piece of sandstone and not a model with a mold line. Nothing difficult, but you will literally whittle away a lot of time cleaning the castings. Every part once ready for paint will be scrutinized and any missed or uneven seams will be cleaned up before paint.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline kariosls37  
#6 Posted : 18 January 2014 10:17:15(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Great stuff MattThumpUp

I have seen pics of one built up and it must be an impressive structure to park a couple of trains in. It's a pity I don't have the space or the model for such a railway cathedral.

Rick
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Offline biedmatt  
#7 Posted : 18 January 2014 12:52:19(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: Janne75 Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

You have a great building project with many challenges. I'm sure it will look great when it will be ready. I can only dream about this kind of large buildings as they could not fit my small layout with mostly curved tracks. And if I have some straight tracks on my mainlines they are very close to walls or are bridges so no way I can have a large station building. But life generally and with MRR is full of compromises... I can live without one, but I'm very glad you have this project and will follow your progress with great passion.

Thanks for posting this with photos ThumpUp .

Regards,
Janne


Hi Janne,
I bought into their advertising claiming that although it is large, since the public/people part of the station and the track platform are stacked one atop the other, the footprint isn't as large as a traditional station. I hope they are right.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#8 Posted : 18 January 2014 13:58:03(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: kariosls37 Go to Quoted Post
Great stuff MattThumpUp

I have seen pics of one built up and it must be an impressive structure to park a couple of trains in. It's a pity I don't have the space or the model for such a railway cathedral.

Rick


Hi. Rick,

This kit seems to be one that is so popular (probably the size) yet there is so little in the way of builds on the web (also probably size related). I have done a few Google searches. There isn't much out there, but this is the best pictures I have found of one built, about 1/3 of the way down the page, but the other pics are worth a look too

http://www.michael-robert-gauss.de/Seite1.htm

Clearly a professional build with the kind of mild weathering I plan to do. I will be referring to these often once the walls are painted.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#9 Posted : 18 January 2014 14:51:10(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
One of the center entrance panels now has the sandstone completed.
I am liking the way it looks.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

The roof and capstone have just been set in place to see how well the roof fits and how it looks.

Now to build another. It should go a little faster. The instructions are 16 pages long. This seems like a lot, but 2 pages are unrelated to construction and the remaining pages are just pictures of completed segments with the parts identified by number. There is no direction on what order to do the pieces in that segment. So I cut all the parts for a segment from the sprues (you may have noticed the pencil marks numbering the parts), clean the castings and then examine and test fit, trying to determine how they go together and what would be the best sequence. The centers have many sub-assemblies and at times, it's hard to visualize the completed assembly.

Back in a few days when I have a new section to report on. They will be the walls with the large glass panels.

Edit: See post #80. If your towers are not square, this is the time to fix them. If they are not square, you will have trouble with the seam between roof panels. I would not glue in the grey roof panel yet, do that after you paint. But be sure to test fit the piece and make sure you do not have to squeeze it to put it into place. If you do, then push the towers apart or remove material as needed until it does fit without pinching. Also see edit note in post #26.

Edited by user 27 June 2015 03:32:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline JKJ  
#10 Posted : 18 January 2014 23:11:21(UTC)
JKJ

Norway   
Joined: 12/05/2010(UTC)
Posts: 126
Location: Bergen, Norway
Hi Matt,

Looks like a very nice station. How big is it?

JK
Offline Alsterstreek  
#11 Posted : 18 January 2014 23:48:53(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
Hi Matt,

Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post

The building has the kind of details you would expect for a late Victorian/early Edwardian era building to have. Reproduced in HO, they are just sublime:

[URL=http://s887.photobucket.com/user/biedmatt/media/Copyof2014-01-17005800x600_zps3c18140b.jpg.html]




Great project you have there. The lower castle-like structure is the symbol of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg, where the prototype is standing. I love both, city and station building, which for me is the most beautiful one in entire Germany.

Greetz - Ak Smile
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Offline biedmatt  
#12 Posted : 19 January 2014 02:44:10(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: JKJ Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

Looks like a very nice station. How big is it?

JK


Trix say it is 1340mm x 590mm x 290mm high. I measured the base at 52 inches x 19 inches. I think it is big enough to be the highlight of most any layout. I think the elevated trains passing through a city scape will be really great to see.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline NZMarklinist  
#13 Posted : 19 January 2014 06:32:34(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Hi Matt,

Great work so far. From my learnings of the kit gleaned from the Marklin B&G a few years back, the kit does not go together easily and a bit of filing and fettling is required.
If you are going to weather it, it would be good to do that before fitting the window glass I think
Also Rick knows the right sort of glue to use so you don't fry the window glass which is such an important part of this kit. I just keep forgetting what it's called, not having built any kits recently Scared


From my posting in your other thread ; -

Hamburg Dammtor station does indeed only have four tracks, two mainline and two S Bahn. I intend to represent the S Bahn lines just, without Catenery ( Cause the S Bahn is powered from a ground level third rail, not unlike a well known modelleisenbahn system, we all know and most of us love Wink )

I will add some pics to this post when I get a moment RollEyes

Good luck and take your time but, it sounds as tho your on the right track ThumpUp (puns excluded Wink )

edit; sorry I see you've got the painting/weathering in hand ThumpUp
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by NZMarklinist
Offline NZMarklinist  
#14 Posted : 19 January 2014 06:37:16(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by: Mulldog Lemon Go to Quoted Post
Thanks. I've seen some of the other Trix models around and wondered what they were really like.



This Kit is totally "something else"
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
User is suspended until 23/03/4752 12:54:35(UTC) Mulldog Lemon  
#15 Posted : 19 January 2014 08:52:37(UTC)
Mulldog Lemon

Australia   
Joined: 27/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by: NZMarklinist Go to Quoted Post
"Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !"



see below. I couldn't remember where I'd seen it.

This deleted post is restored by moderator.
Dear Mulldog Lemon, restoring your deleted posts is a lot of work for the moderators, so please stop deleting your posts !!

Edited by moderator 29 March 2014 08:30:23(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

UserPostedImage
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Offline biedmatt  
#16 Posted : 19 January 2014 12:49:38(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: NZMarklinist Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

Also Rick knows the right sort of glue to use so you don't fry the window glass which is such an important part of this kit. I just keep forgetting what it's called, not having built any kits redently.


Hi Glen,

Any information you can include is very welcome. I have found some info, but more is always good. What I have not seen are pictures of the inside. If anyone has those they would be most appreciated. Curious to see what they are doing with the catenary. It appears the S bahn is third rail. But that (I believe) is later then the era 3 I model.

I'm planning to use Microscale Kristal Klear for the windows. Great stuff that will not fog and it dries clear. Some kind of white glue I think. You can even make small windows with the stuff by bridging the opening with it using a toothpick. Great stuff.

http://www.microscale.co...OD&Product_Code=MI-9
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Alsterstreek  
#17 Posted : 19 January 2014 14:17:08(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
Hi Matt,

You called?BigGrin Here comes photographic evidence of the catenary inside and - since it might help to understand the situation inside - in front of the station:

http://images.fotocommun...69-9eb9-b1e5a601598b.jpg
http://www.eriksmail.de/...C241003Dammtor190210.jpg
http://www.eriksmail.de/.../474554Dammtor141208.jpg
http://www.bahnbilder.de...-bahn-hamburg-329298.jpg
http://www.eriksmail.de/...00003Dammtor2p040109.jpg
http://www.eriksmail.de/...72535Dammtor1p211208.jpg
http://img820.imageshack...9721/103235dammtorkl.jpg
http://www.hamburger-bah...HH-Dammtor-mit-Halle.JPG
http://www.reflektion.in..._100807_1_sb-hh_1000.jpg
http://imageshack.us/pho...170131chambdammtor8.jpg/
http://www.trainslide.co...29ewd-s-bahn-hamburg.jpg

Speaking of eras: The three-car electric multiple unit Hamburg S-Bahn train DRG Class ET 171 (since 1968 DB Class 471/871) being fed by the third rail was running through Hamburg-Dammtor from the 1940s until 2001.

Enjoy - Ak Smile
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Offline biedmatt  
#18 Posted : 19 January 2014 14:38:55(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

You called?BigGrin Here comes photographic evidence of the catenary inside and - since it might help to understand the situation inside - in front of the station:


Speaking of eras: The three-car electric multiple unit Hamburg S-Bahn train DRG Class ET 171 (since 1968 DB Class 471/871) was running through Hamburg-Dammtor from the 1940s until 2001.

Enjoy - Ak Smile


Absolutely fantastic! Thank you!

It appears some of the scaloped glass panels at the ends have been removed to make clearance for the catenary. I'll keep that in mind as this build progresses. May need to do the very same thing for the same reason.

Loved the picture with the two kinders posing in front of the triebwagen. She even has a handful of flowers. Good stuff!
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline NZMarklinist  
#19 Posted : 19 January 2014 16:46:33(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: NZMarklinist Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

Also Rick knows the right sort of glue to use so you don't fry the window glass which is such an important part of this kit. I just keep forgetting what it's called, not having built any kits redently.


Hi Glen,

Any information you can include is very welcome. I have found some info, but more is always good. What I have not seen are pictures of the inside. If anyone has those they would be most appreciated. Curious to see what they are doing with the catenary. It appears the S bahn is third rail. But that (I believe) is later then the era 3 I model.

I'm planning to use Microscale Kristal Klear for the windows. Great stuff that will not fog and it dries clear. Some kind of white glue I think. You can even make small windows with the stuff by bridging the opening with it using a toothpick. Great stuff.

http://www.microscale.co...OD&Product_Code=MI-9



Hi Matt,

I took lots of inside pics, both the Train Hall and downstairs, as well as close up of the oiutside of the building.
The Catenary inside is conventional wire. The S Bahn is three rail at ground level, with the solid third rail on the RH side of track.
Where the Catenary exits the hall the bottom pieces of glass are in deed missing to allow for the splash shield if that is what it is called. Have a look, just a few samples !
NZMarklinist attached the following image(s):
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (1) Western End.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (2) Western End.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (3) Looking East.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (4) Looking East.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (5) South Mainline Side.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (6) Looking West outside from S Bahn side.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (7).jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (8) East End.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (20) East End.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (21) S Bahn to  Altona.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (75) Main Doors South Side.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013 1595 (77) By South  Side Doors.jpg
Hamburg Dammtor BHF_Marklin Days Trip 2013_Faller ICE Platform 1595.jpg
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by NZMarklinist
Offline biedmatt  
#20 Posted : 19 January 2014 16:52:43(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Hi Glen,

If you could e-mail me your pics or post them here for others to see, I would be very greatful. The more information I can gather, the better. Both for me and anyone in the future who may build this kit.

Thanks!

Edit: I posted too soon. Thank you so very much! A stunning building both inside and out. I know modern construction methods are way beyond what we knew and did 100 years ago, but the style (both artisticly and engineering) they had is something to behold.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline NZMarklinist  
#21 Posted : 19 January 2014 17:00:45(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Hi Glen,

If you could e-mail me your pics or post them here for others to see, I would be very greatful. The more information I can gather, the better. Both for me and anyone in the future who may build this kit.

Thanks!

Edit: I posted too soon. Thank you so very much! A stunning building both inside and out. I know modern construction methods are way beyond what we new and did 100 years ago, but the style (both artisticly and engineering) they had is something to behold.



Matt note the inside wall by that S bahn Zug, it appears to be conventional bricks but they may have been put there in the 1990 rebuild ?
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by NZMarklinist
Offline biedmatt  
#22 Posted : 19 January 2014 17:01:43(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I already see the first row of stone is a darker color than the rest. Thanks Glen! Also the doors must have changed. These I see they are automatic and obviously new, but they have also been located at the outside wall. The kit has them recessed into a foyer.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline biedmatt  
#23 Posted : 19 January 2014 17:09:00(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
The second center section is going much easier than the first. The knowledge gleened from the first helps, but this center section has much less distortion.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline NZMarklinist  
#24 Posted : 20 January 2014 04:58:34(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Hi Matt,

You called?BigGrin Here comes photographic evidence of the catenary inside and - since it might help to understand the situation inside - in front of the station:


Speaking of eras: The three-car electric multiple unit Hamburg S-Bahn train DRG Class ET 171 (since 1968 DB Class 471/871) was running through Hamburg-Dammtor from the 1940s until 2001.

Enjoy - Ak Smile


Absolutely fantastic! Thank you!

It appears some of the scaloped glass panels at the ends have been removed to make clearance for the catenary. I'll keep that in mind as this build progresses. May need to do the very same thing for the same reason.

Loved the picture with the two kinders posing in front of the triebwagen. She even has a handful of flowers. Good stuff!



Something I hadn't considered but, that pic appears to be the S Bahn line as it is today. So way back when there was Catenary on all lines maybe Huh
I say that from the knowledge, and assumption, that the platforms could never have came very far out the eastern end because of the bridges. So that pic is Western end Nth side = S Bahn line as it is today Wink

Great picture resourse AK ThumpUp
Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by NZMarklinist
Offline biedmatt  
#25 Posted : 20 January 2014 13:34:16(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: NZMarklinist Go to Quoted Post

Matt note the inside wall by that S bahn Zug, it appears to be conventional bricks but they may have been put there in the 1990 rebuild ?


I noticed that too. Trix has reproduced that on the end pieces. It was one of the segments that sandwiched the window glass. What is also interesting is the center section has the brick laid in an arc to meet the main window. Trix did not do that there. They have a brick panel that glued to the inside, but the side panels (also brick) are just vertical and do not follow the curve of the window. I also think they just put them in so you would not see the unfinished insides of the "towers" when you peered through the glass. These panels do not even come all the way out to meet the brick panel glued inside the center panel. There is a gap of about 1/8 inch. This though will be in the corner where you would not be able to see it through the window.

The big question, is the brick on the inside the same color as the sandstone? It looks close.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#26 Posted : 22 January 2014 23:23:45(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I have made a bit more progress. Three of the four window panels are now glued up.

Each panel has two tabs on the back that support the train platform at the perimeter walls.

UserPostedImage

I clamped a block of wood on the bench, put glue on each piece and placed them so the tabs were against the edge of the table. I then clamped another block on the opposite side to keep them tightly pushed together. Clamps and lead weight along the face keep them flat on the table so the wall will be even without any "sawteeth".

UserPostedImage

This is a good time to show some of those alignment problems I spoke a little of earlier.
This is the gap at the inner panel between a tower and the brick panel glued to the inside of the center section.

UserPostedImage

I tried this panel at a bunch of different locations on the wall it glues to and it would never line up at both mating points. I figure this is one of those "good enough" situations since you will never see the joint anyway.

Another problem is the inner brick panel around the center (clock) window as it attaches to the center section. The clock window fits inside the opening. It is not sandwiched as the other glass in previous posts. I aligned the inner brick panel so there was an even edge all around the center panel window opening.

UserPostedImage

Placed as such, it meets and matches perfectly the arc of the center panel at the top.

UserPostedImage

So, I though it was "all good". Well, not really. When you put the roof panel in, it has a lip that appears to belong in an opening between the two center wall pieces at the arc at the top. But, there is no opening.

UserPostedImage

Consequently, the roof panel does not meet the center wall as it should. The option would have been to locate the inner brick panel lower. But then, it wouldn't line up with the window opening in the center panel and the main window in the structure would look like crap. I am glad I installed it the way I did and I can simply cut off the lip to get the roof panel where it belongs, but this does demonstrate that some "field engineering" is required to put this thing together.

Edit: Now that I am further into the construction, the thought of placing the inner brick panel lower would not work. There are tabs to support the train platform on the center outer wall too as shown in the window panels above. Place the inner brick panel lower, and then it would obstruct the train platform. So your only option is to cut the flange off the roof panel as I intend to do, or remove about 4mm of material along the top arc of the inner brick panel. Since this is high and inside, you will never see this joint, but it will allow the roof panel to fit as intended. Had I known in advance of the problem, that is what I would have done.

Edited by user 30 April 2014 13:47:43(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 7 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#27 Posted : 25 January 2014 20:52:08(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I now have the wall pieces completed and ready to glue together.

UserPostedImage

Since everything on the kit fits so tight, I test fit each window and door opening to make sure the frame would fit and that there was some clearance for the paint. Every opening need to be scraped. All the mold part lines have been scraped and sanded and the pieces have been washed to remove the mold release. I knew I wasn't going to be able to wash it once all the pieces were joined together.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 7 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#28 Posted : 30 January 2014 03:51:55(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
The exterior walls are up.

UserPostedImage

Nothing difficult, just repetitive glue, clamp, wait and repeat.

I started at the center and worked out.


Once the center was glued to the base, I glued the window panels to the center section.

UserPostedImage


After that dried for 90 minutes, I glued the four feet of the window panels to the base.

UserPostedImage


Then I glued the side end panels to the window panels.

UserPostedImage


After that, I glued the outer feet to the base.

UserPostedImage


Then I repeated it all for the opposite side.

After that side was finished, I glued the end panels to the two sides.

UserPostedImage

Now I am ready for paint. I do not know when I will be able to paint it. This thing is too big to fit in my spray booth and yesterday morning it was -9 degrees F (-23 C). It could be a few weeks until the weather will allow me to paint it.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Danlake  
#29 Posted : 30 January 2014 08:07:29(UTC)
Danlake

New Zealand   
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,571
Gosh - you can really see how big it's on the last photos!

It looks great - looking forward to see the progressBigGrin

Brgds - Lasse
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Danlake
Offline biedmatt  
#30 Posted : 09 April 2014 02:41:45(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I have finally been able to make some progress.


Primed

UserPostedImage

Painted

UserPostedImage

and now the first floor windows and door frames primed, painted and installed

UserPostedImage

Next step will be to weather the stone and door frames with finely ground pastels and then seal with clear flat lacquer.

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 8 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline rschaffr  
#31 Posted : 10 April 2014 15:42:14(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,176
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Good work, Matt! I took on that project a year or two ago. It is a big kit! I took some pictures of the station when I was in Hamburg a few years ago. I tried to duplicate the fluorescent lights using some Brawa (I think) N scale lights ans some Plastruct channels. After installation I got the channels straighter by pulling some tension on them.

UserPostedImage

I also integrated the catenary into the structure.

-Ron
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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Offline biedmatt  
#32 Posted : 10 April 2014 20:21:53(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Hi Ron,
I've got your thread bookmarked and refer to it frequently. I use it to see how some of the pieces go together. Each step one at a time is easy, but knowing what you can and can't see further down the line is hard to visualize sometimes. Your photos help a lot. I think I will copy identically your catenary system. It looks great!
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline rschaffr  
#33 Posted : 10 April 2014 20:25:26(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,176
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Matt:

The only negative I found to the catenary was that I could not use the scalloped clear curtain at the ends of the station.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline biedmatt  
#34 Posted : 10 April 2014 20:46:35(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I thought that might be the case. In the photos Glen posted, you can see where the scallops have been removed for catenary clearance. I figured if it was to scale, the model would have the same problems as the prototype.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline Shamu  
#35 Posted : 17 April 2014 08:44:59(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Excellent effort Matt

This will be a marvel once finished and half your luck.

After nagging the other half finally get approval to get one for myself and its been pulled, out of production. (Still making the "N" version apparently)Crying

I'm SOOOOOO jealous. Unless I fluke one on eBay looks like I'm out of luck. Kicking myself for not buying it a couple of years ago when I saw the set here (in Oz) for $700.

Your one of the lucky few.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Shamu
Offline biedmatt  
#36 Posted : 19 April 2014 20:05:42(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I got the outside walls weathered and clear coated today. The pictures do not show the variations very well, but if you compare the outside to the unweathered inside seen in the wall behind, you notice a considerable change. Second picture shows the reds and shadowed areas the best, but even that picture doesn't really capture it.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

Now I need to soot up and clearcoat the inside.

Edited by user 20 April 2014 12:38:50(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 10 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Online PJMärklin  
#37 Posted : 20 April 2014 13:17:23(UTC)
PJMärklin

Australia   
Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2,204
Location: Hobart, Australia
Looking great Matt.

Regards,

PJ
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by PJMärklin
Offline biedmatt  
#38 Posted : 02 May 2014 23:10:22(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
It is coming along nicely now that I have gotten the outer walls painted and weathered.

I got the 18 panels that form the train platform installed. Like Ron, I found that it was too long and each of the three panels at each end needed to have about 1/8 inch cut off so it would fit inside the stone end walls.

UserPostedImage

The train platform now painted flat black and the passenger platforms assembled, painted to simulate concrete and weathered.

UserPostedImage

Next step was the second floor windows. Most all of the plastic has suffered some abrasion from rubbing against the parts next to them in the box. As I said before, the packaging was terrible. For the colored parts it was no big deal since I paint everything. For the clear parts it was a major problem. At least half suffered from abrasion marks and the one element of this building, the windows, would look lousy. Fortunately I had a polish from my days of woodgraining metal dashboards and auto window moldings. This stuff and a lot of elbow grease got them looking better than new.

UserPostedImage

Now I had to work out how I was going to assemble the windows. The Testors liquid cement is my go to glue when it will do the job needed. For the 16 side window panels I was able to use the Testors to glue the window frame to the glass. I had to be careful so it would stay just on the edge of the plastic and not flow into the window. Since the parts can not be painted for this glue to work, I then needed to paint the frames. These were easy to mask as they are rectangular in shape and the frame is just on three of the four sides of each window panel. But 48 window panels to mask meant it was going to take a lot of time. I used masking tape with a high adhesion rating. I wasn't worried about pulling paint off the surface since it was the windows and I wanted to be sure paint would not creep under the masking tape and ruin the windows. The side that was masked has the window relief details. I invested a lot of time being sure it was stuck down well. It took both days this past weekend to get all 18 windows ready to glue into the second floor. This picture shows an assembled window, the next is masked for paint and then painted and the mask removed.

UserPostedImage

The color difference between the naked and painted frames is slight, but the main window frames had molding marks on the front that would need to be sanded to eliminate them. Once sanded, the color was off so painting all the window frames was the only option. Before paint on the left and painted on the right.


UserPostedImage

The center window was too complicated to allow me to glue the frame to the window and then mask and paint the frame. The frame was painted first and then glued to the window with Microscale Kristal Klear. This is a latex adhesive that dries crystal clear and since it is latex, becomes waterproof once dry. It allows several minutes working time so you can clean up any excess or that which has oozed out as the pieces are pressed together. This same glue was then used to glue all 18 second floor window panels to the outer walls.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

These next two pictures are excellent before and after shots. The first one shows the plastic before the mold seams and edges have been scraped and sanded. The second picture shows an after paint shot with the seams and edges all cleaned up. A lot of time invested getting them to where I wanted, but a big payoff in the end.


UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

Edited by user 12 June 2014 19:02:03(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 7 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline biedmatt  
#39 Posted : 06 May 2014 02:04:41(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I now have both end windows installed.

UserPostedImage

I needed to pull the walls together with a string on both sides, so I decided to use the Testors liquid cement here due to the strength. The stone walls had paint on the beveled surface that contacts the end walls, so I scrapped off the paint with a knife. For the grey end walls themselves, before painting, I masked the bevel that contacts the stone walls and the surface to which the window glues. This left them clean for the liquid cement. Scraping and cleaning up the outside steel structure pieces of the windows took an hour alone each side, but I do like the way they look. Very industrial. I will lightly weather the ends with rust. I do not want the building to look neglected, but I do not want it looking brand new either.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

All that is left now are the ribs that support the roof, the roof itself and the awnings over the entrances.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Shamu  
#40 Posted : 06 May 2014 03:40:44(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Bloody brilliant Matt.

Not long now, can't wait to see the finished product. LOL, well looks like a 6 month labour of love or more by the time your finished.

I'm still jealous and miffed at myself for not getting the set a few years back but that's life. Due to the 2 eldest boys not speaking to each other for the last 10 years I've got 2 "Bonn" stations (1 from each) and now I'm thinking of how to graft the 2 together....... this project of yours has inspired me.

Thank you so much for sharing with us all.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Shamu
Online PJMärklin  
#41 Posted : 06 May 2014 09:14:16(UTC)
PJMärklin

Australia   
Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2,204
Location: Hobart, Australia
Looks magnificent Matt

Regards,

PJ
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Offline biedmatt  
#42 Posted : 07 May 2014 02:23:36(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Sometimes each new step reveals a challenge I did not anticipate. The warped and twisted pieces from the packaging have come back to haunt me. In post #39, I showed how the outside walls bowed out and needed to be pulled into shape. At each end it was easy as the wall is basically two dimensional. I have the same problem with the center sections and they offer considerably more resistance to being pulled into shape. The roof support trusses do not provide anywhere near the strength of the end wall, So they weren't going to support the stress. I needed a solution that would look like it belonged. So I came up with this:

1/16 inch piano wire fished through a hole at each of the four towers. Inside each tower I silver soldered some brass sleeve stock and then put a nut and washer behind that to spread the load over a larger surface of the plastic. I did not want the plastic cracking out.

UserPostedImage

Then I brought the two pieces of piano wire together at the center and silver soldered another brass sleeve over the two pieces of wire tying them together. Now I needed help. While someone held the soldering iron on the brass sleeve, I used two pairs of pliers and pulled the outer walls into shape. Held them until the solder cooled and then checked to see if the ceiling trusses would now fit as needed. A little bit of tuning and we got it. They now twang like a guitar string.

UserPostedImage

Painted grey to match the roof steel and it looks like it belongs. I am glad I used the Testors Liquid Cement #3502. I have pulled this structure in so many different ways and so hard that it would probably have come undone at the seams.

Funny how the flash makes the pastel weathering pop in the pictures. The streaks inside the two far towers do not show under normal light. And in post #36 taken outside, the outer weathering hardly shows, but a photo taken with a flash in the basement in post #38 makes them pop too.

UserPostedImage

Edited by user 07 May 2014 13:40:00(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Shamu  
#43 Posted : 07 May 2014 02:32:09(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
I'm starting to wonder if the issues you (and others) are having with the construction is behind the reason they pulled this marvellous kit. (in HO at least)
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
Offline biedmatt  
#44 Posted : 07 May 2014 03:22:54(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
I'm starting to wonder if the issues you (and others) are having with the construction is behind the reason they pulled this marvellous kit. (in HO at least)


That is a fair question. I think they got the train platform pieces wrong and that is causing some of the trouble with the walls. I think it may be just a smidge too wide and it forces the tops of the walls out. I even clamped the platform pieces against the outer walls when glued, so it isn't that I did not place them correctly. Without doubt, they got the length wrong and they wouldn't fit without being cut. The inner brick panel for the center window is wrong too. The rest from what I can recall seems okay. Packaging is another problem. The box is big now, but it should have been bigger and seperated into compartments.

One of the reasons I am doing this thread is for others who may want to build one. There seems to always be a couple for sale at ebay.de. I believe many are still in the box. None of the challenges have been insurmountable and someone may have better solutions to problems than I used. It's unique style and size makes it desirable. I do not believe anyone else has done an elevated platform station. I think it will look awesome in a city with the trains elevated on bridges and arcards surrounded by city blocks of buildings. The visual affect of a city, but the trains elevated so they are more visable as they pass through the city. I'd recommend it to anyone, with the caveat that you must be patient and budget a lot for paint and other sundry tools and materials.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Alsterstreek  
#45 Posted : 07 May 2014 14:56:22(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
UserPostedImage


No more snow in your back yard !
Smile
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
Offline biedmatt  
#46 Posted : 19 May 2014 00:02:54(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Made some more progress this weekend. I figured out how I was going to mount my catenary including how low the wire was going to need to be. It is pretty low, but it just clears the end windows by a couple millimeters. So once I knew what I was going to do, I made four hangers out of piano wire that I silver soldered together and painted silver so it would not rust.

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Once I had the hanger worked out I could then figure out where to drill the holes in the roof trusses. I made a fixture I could clamp to my drill press so I could do them all quickly and exactly the same. 77.5 and 101 are the dimensions in millimeters from the bottom of the truss. This location will place the catenary in the correct location if you use Viessmann catenary.

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Once the roof trusses for the four catenary locations were glued into place I could install the catenary hangers and put up some catenary wire. Yep, that is another element to force the walls into place. The thin wire is pulling as described in post #42 above. This gets the walls at the correct distance apart for the truss under the center roof panel. The grey diamond at the left of the picture sits underneath a brass tube. There is a similar diamond at the other side of the tube. This pieces pushes the walls out, getting the walls at the correct distance apart so the roof truss with the catenary hanger would be straight without any kinks or buckling.

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I had a lot of trouble with the catenary wire. Cutting to length and bending was easy, the Viessmann wire bending pliers are very nice. But for some reason when I would bend the wire through 180 degrees to form the hook, the wire would "split" as if an outside coating was tearing away. Once this happened, the hooks lost all "spring" in them and I am concerned they would work loose in the future. I really do not want to replace catenary wire in this with all the roof trusses in place. Of the dozen wires I had, two came out okay. One was short, my fault, I assumed it was the same length as the one next to it and the others all had a failure of the wire. That was a failure in 75% of the catenary wires. I hope I got a bad run and it is not indicative of the product.

I got the center roof panels glued into place. These are the only two that glue in, the others just rest side by side with an overlap of a couple millimeters. I am worried about how they will fit considering all the other problems I have had.

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I also got the entrance awnings glued up. For now I will place them on the shelf. I have a bit more work to do and these stick out in harm's way. Camera just would not focus on the right place.

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Edited by user 04 August 2015 13:57:03(UTC)  | Reason: Explained element in picture 3 in more detail

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Shamu  
#47 Posted : 19 May 2014 00:45:35(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Hi Matt,

Did you try to heat the wire with a hot air gun or similar when bending them ?

Just a thought.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
Offline biedmatt  
#48 Posted : 19 May 2014 01:48:15(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
They did not suggest it in the instructions with the pliers, but I have enough scrap wire, I could test it and see if the results improve.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline biedmatt  
#49 Posted : 07 June 2014 23:07:09(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I got my new catenary wire. Every piece worked fine this time around. The others must have been from a bad run of wire. I also decided now would be a good time to install the track. So I bought some 2200 K-track straights, painted them to simulate rust and put seven down for each track. I also cut both rails and the third rail at the center of the station and brought wires down through the station. I am not sure what size of track blocks I may need, so I wanted to build into it as much flexibility as possible. I wired up two pieces of track and plugged them into each end of each track and then ran a Swiss loko with it's narrow panto wiper back and forth to check that the catenary wire was properly located.

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I cross braced the catenary wires. The pieces were very long and there was a lot of sideways movement in the wire. I am thinking the catenary hangers I fabricated do not permit enough pull on the wire to keep it taught. I did not want to have a train get stuck if a pantograph came off and fouled in the catenary wire.

I also needed to think about how I am going to support the catenary wire outside of the station. The wire is 8mm lower than the normal mounting height. So I reconfigured some cantenary tower masts with the cross wire placement located 8mm lower. This will get the catenary into and out of the station. After that, I will bring the wire back up to the normal height. I may do tower masts at 4mm too so the transition would not be so abrupt.

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Just the roof now. I am trying to figure a way to clamp the roof trusses to the sidewalls while the glue dries. The curve in the pieces doesn't provide many clamping options.

Edited by user 08 June 2014 12:38:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Shamu  
#50 Posted : 08 June 2014 02:41:50(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Well done Matt,

Glad you got the internal catenary sorted. Its looking good, one step closer. ThumpUp
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Shamu
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