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Offline BrandonVA  
#1 Posted : 14 March 2012 14:05:05(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Hello all,

I just won a whole group of coaches on eBay, hopefully the condition is as stated. 4022, 4023, 4024, 4026, 4027, 4029 and 4052.

I am thinking about adding lighting. If I wanted to be a "purist" I would try to find the Marklin kits that match the years of production for these coaches . Does anyone know the correct part numbers for these? Also, if I wanted to use a newer kit (analog operation), are there any semi-modern or current kits that would fit?

Thank you,

Brandon
Offline river6109  
#2 Posted : 14 March 2012 14:40:50(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,635
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Brandon,



part number 7077 + 7198,

to reduce the amount of amps you are using ( 2 globes in each carriage = 14 globes, this would be the top end of allowable amps, use bajonet led's from

http://www.trainaidsa.com.

bajonet

another option is to reduce the friction of 8 sliders (incl. loco) connect a wire right through the train, disadvantage: they all have to stay together.

good Luck

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline smurfillo  
#3 Posted : 14 March 2012 14:49:17(UTC)
smurfillo


Joined: 12/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 88
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Hello all,

I just won a whole group of coaches on eBay, hopefully the condition is as stated. 4022, 4023, 4024, 4026, 4027, 4029 and 4052.

I am thinking about adding lighting. If I wanted to be a "purist" I would try to find the Marklin kits that match the years of production for these coaches . Does anyone know the correct part numbers for these? Also, if I wanted to use a newer kit (analog operation), are there any semi-modern or current kits that would fit?

Thank you,

Brandon




I think the Märklin Kit 7320 could resolve the problem.
Offline BrandonVA  
#4 Posted : 14 March 2012 14:53:33(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
John - thank you! I have seen Trainaidsa before, but never knew if anyone used them. I do like that they have warm white LEDs, which suites my taste a lot better. I am a lot more comfortable placing an order with them based on your positive experience.

Friction is going to be an issue, but I'm not sure I'll run them all at the same time...maybe I could make sub-consists of 2-3 cars, then have my sliders setup this way. I am sure the baggage car would come most of the time, a good power point.

Smurfillo - 7320 says it's for the TEE coaches...and long distance coahcs such as 4085, 4087, 4049, 4054, 4064, based on the 1974 catalog. Since all the coaches are about the same size, it would probably fit...but do you know for sure?
Offline Western Pacific  
#5 Posted : 14 March 2012 14:59:02(UTC)
Western Pacific

Sweden   
Joined: 19/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 841
Location: Lidingö, Sweden
Hi Brandon,

I had a quick look in some old catalogs (late 1960-ies and early 1970-ies) and there they listed 7077 and 7198 as the approriate interior lighting kits for all these coaches.

In order for 7320 to fit there is a need that the halfway separation wall and the "cross beams" joining the outer walls have a relatively large canal about 15 mm at the top and somewhat less at the bottom and it is around 10 mm deep that you would see after lifting the roof off the coaches.

So I'm sorry to say, I believe Smurfillo is wrong here.
Offline seatrains  
#6 Posted : 14 March 2012 15:40:01(UTC)
seatrains

United States   
Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 669
Location: Shoreline, WA
Brandon, those were the one you outbid me on...LOL..they were a nice lot!. Post pictures when you get them lit.
Thom
European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter
4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association
Offline smurfillo  
#7 Posted : 14 March 2012 16:31:38(UTC)
smurfillo


Joined: 12/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 88
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: Western Pacific Go to Quoted Post
Hi Brandon,

I had a quick look in some old catalogs (late 1960-ies and early 1970-ies) and there they listed 7077 and 7198 as the approriate interior lighting kits for all these coaches.

In order for 7320 to fit there is a need that the halfway separation wall and the "cross beams" joining the outer walls have a relatively large canal about 15 mm at the top and somewhat less at the bottom and it is around 10 mm deep that you would see after lifting the roof off the coaches.

So I'm sorry to say, I believe Smurfillo is wrong here.



Yes, You're right, my cars aren´t 4027 are 4053 sorry...
Offline BrandonVA  
#8 Posted : 14 March 2012 16:40:41(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: seatrains Go to Quoted Post
Brandon, those were the one you outbid me on...LOL..they were a nice lot!. Post pictures when you get them lit.


Sorry about that. On the plus side, I probably won't be in the market for tin-plate coaches for a little while BigGrin .
Offline witzlerh  
#9 Posted : 14 March 2012 16:44:36(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
I too have about 10 passenger cars. They all have the still available 7077 and 7198 lighting kits. Some may take the 7320 as well. All are still available from Märklin.
I am presently using tiny connectors to allow the ability to run wire between cars but be able to disconnect them. I will let you know what works as I am still in the process of trying it out. There are two methods that I am trying out.Unsure

John. Thanks so much for the information on LEDS that fit in the same sockets! Current consumption is a real concern! I will check them out and perhaps order them for spares.BigGrin
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
Offline witzlerh  
#10 Posted : 21 March 2012 01:56:28(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
I finished the addition of wire running throught the Metal Passenger cars to cut down on center pick-ups. It works well and I would shorten up the leaders and connectors abit. I will also order smaller connectors to make it even more descrete.
Now I can move my cars around with relative ease.

Here is the post that has the best description.

Power through Metal Passenger Cars
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
Offline franciscohg  
#11 Posted : 10 May 2012 20:14:15(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Brandon,



part number 7077 + 7198,

to reduce the amount of amps you are using ( 2 globes in each carriage = 14 globes, this would be the top end of allowable amps, use bajonet led's from

http://www.trainaidsa.com.

bajonet

another option is to reduce the friction of 8 sliders (incl. loco) connect a wire right through the train, disadvantage: they all have to stay together.

good Luck

John


Hi everybody, i saw this topic and ordered some leds from trainaidsa, they arrived and they work fine,but the flickering is really bad, enough to cause you seizuresBigGrin , is there a way to avoid it? i tried some solutions with a bridge rectifier and or capacitor but it didnt work, can it be done? they porblem is the common ground i think...
thanks
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline Western Pacific  
#12 Posted : 10 May 2012 20:33:41(UTC)
Western Pacific

Sweden   
Joined: 19/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 841
Location: Lidingö, Sweden
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Brandon,



part number 7077 + 7198,

to reduce the amount of amps you are using ( 2 globes in each carriage = 14 globes, this would be the top end of allowable amps, use bajonet led's from

http://www.trainaidsa.com.

bajonet

another option is to reduce the friction of 8 sliders (incl. loco) connect a wire right through the train, disadvantage: they all have to stay together.

good Luck

John


Hi everybody, i saw this topic and ordered some leds from trainaidsa, they arrived and they work fine,but the flickering is really bad, enough to cause you seizuresBigGrin , is there a way to avoid it? i tried some solutions with a bridge rectifier and or capacitor but it didnt work, can it be done? they porblem is the common ground i think...
thanks


I'm pretty sure you are right. So what you need to do is to add (solder) a brown cable to the 7077s, insulate the 7077s from the tinplate of the coaches and run both the yellow and brown cables to the bridge rectifier. The input to the bridge rectifier could be a yellow cable from the 7198 and a ground cable suitably connected to the tinplate of the coaches. (Your set-up with a bridge rectifier and common ground actually means that you will not get full wave rectified current, only half wave rectification and that could be worse compared to running on track current).
Offline franciscohg  
#13 Posted : 10 May 2012 20:47:54(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
hmmmmmmm. yes, thats what i thought...a little more work to do, but i will give it a try since i'm plenty of 7077 to use.....
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline franciscohg  
#14 Posted : 10 May 2012 21:17:58(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
Done, i have installed one insulated 7077 and of course it works ok, not much work really to do the insulation..at the end it has turned to be far more "elegant" since i ordered also from trainaidsa some accw feeders, i have planned to mount four 7077 for each car to have more even lightning. Now to work and in the afternoon i think i will complete at least one car and take some shots to show the results.
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline 20-VOLT-AC  
#15 Posted : 10 May 2012 21:55:31(UTC)
20-VOLT-AC

United Kingdom   
Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 250
Location: united kingdom
Will be nice to see your finished lighting kits added to those coaches .
Well done Fran.

Neil (UK)


1950's Marklin Fan .
Offline franciscohg  
#16 Posted : 11 May 2012 05:25:08(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
ok, always there is more work than you thought, but, here is the first coach....

coach1

coach2

coach3

Tomorrow i will do my speisewagen.and i will be out of leds...Mad burnt some in the whole process...
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by franciscohg
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#17 Posted : 11 May 2012 14:39:59(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post


i will be out of leds...Mad burnt some in the whole process...


Just a thought, I can't see how you've burnt them unless those LED's don't have a current limiting resistor. Make sure they do or the ones working now won't last you very long.

Offline franciscohg  
#18 Posted : 11 May 2012 15:09:36(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
they are fed trough resistorts....but I had very bad shorts perfecting the insulation technique.
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#19 Posted : 11 May 2012 15:13:47(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
they are fed trough resistorts....but I had very bad shorts perfecting the insulation technique.


Those sparks are a killer.


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