Hi guys!

Testing goes well and I allowed myself to start working on the upper works!

On top of the helix I want to create a forrested area with some water, a few buidlings and a road on which my faller car system busses can take their route.

Some pictures!






And what do you think of my Signals? They are hand made from Krois Modell. All metall.





Hope you enjoyed.

Rinus

Hi Rinua,
Congratulations on the layout progress - a lot of work.

39195 is still going strong.

regards
Kimball

Hi Rinus,

Great progress.

Ian.

Thank you Kimbal! Hope to do some more work today, but I've got some work to do on the roof and Holland is playing tonight.

Well maybe if Ronaldop does a quick score, its over anyways and I can reset priorities!

Best wishes to the E91!

Rinus

Thanks Ian! I have to keep up with yours!

Rinus

Rinus,

here is a link to the Brennerbahn

http://www.bahnforum.inf.../index.php?topic=37741.0

The interruption power is more noticable with sound decoders, just go over the middle studs once and maybe the track itself (very unlikely) and you should see some instant improvements.

Another problem I've found with Roco locos is their pickup contact from the wheels sometimes they are either not resting against the wheel or they have gathered dust & dirt and this is preventing the locos to get proper contact at all times.

I hope you enjoy the pictures and progress (68 pages)

regards.,

John

Hurray!

A package with servo's, servo controlers, wire, conectors, plaster cloth, tunnel arcs, and much more will be shipped today!

I want to make some big steps in the next few weeks.

Rinus

Rinus,

Its a matter of how you program the decoder

John

Sorry for the delay guys. I had to deal with some massive problems with my house. Huge short-cut in our electricity caused a lot of problems.

Nevertheless, I've done some work on the lay-out:
I connected the signals. This was a bit challanging since Krois had not provided me with a manual . With the help of an email and some trail and error I got them working! They are looking very good. I'll definatelly order some more.

The ones I have now have several functions: stop, slow with 60 km/h, safe, shunting.




Furthermore, I set my sights on forming the landscape on both the helix 1 and 2. I've built a wooden frame and added metal meshwhire on top of it. I'll complete it with plaster cloth this week.






And of course there was some driving!






More will follow this week!

Rinus

Hi Rien,

That's great progress your making, and nice to see you've got some timber on the layout.

Ian.

Thanks a lot my friends!

Today I continued with the paper mache, prepared yesterday.

Looking tasteful, isn't it?



I applied it in a thick layer over the plaster cloth.



This moon surfaced landscape was the result!



Tried the same without laying a plaster cloth foundation first. It was a lot mor difficult, since the meshwire lacked the strenght and the adhesive aspecst to be combined well with the paper mache.





Sorry for the low quality pictures. Its rather dark here now. I'm very interested how long it takes to dry.

Rinus

Rinus,

sorry for the late reply, regarding locos not starting from previous selected speeds.

all my programming goes via the Lokprogrammer so any individual CV I would not know and the mathematics of it, I can't handle it with bits and numbers.

Rinus wrote:

Today I continued with the paper mache, prepared yesterday.

Looking tasteful, isn't it?

a bit more tomatosauce and don't forget pepper and salt.

John

Very good progress indeed

Nice job, Rinus. It's a-lot lighter than my plaster works too. Peter

Hi my friends,

Thank you all for the encouragements. Did some more work testerday and this morning.

It took some time to get the right mix for the paper mache sorted out, but I think I've got it now. In the last batch I used 3 packages of wallparer glue and some hands of cement to be mixed with 1 bucket of paper/water. It looks very tasty again! Like oatmeal.
I might add a second layer to the first batch, as this was mixed in a proportion of 1 pakage of glue to 1 bucket of paper/water. This took more time to dry and also resulted in a much thiner substance.

Its also to be recomended not to aply the paper mache directly on mesh wire. I prefer to lay down a layer of plaster cloth first.

I've no experience how it will react to paint. However being paper based, I presume it will do fine.

3rd batch



2nd batch



1st batch




For the scenery part I had this in mind. I want to imitate the St Jodok curve, which is a famous spot on the Brenner line.





I also ballasted a part which will be later transformed into a tunnel exit. Allthough I did some prackicing first, I'm not very experienced in this yet, and i found it very nerve racking!



Rinus

Hi Rinus,

This will transform your layout into how you want it to look.

Ian.

Look great, Rinus.

Just be carefully ballast on turnouts.

Rinus,

I can see there is exitement in the air.

When I think back when I've constructed my layout, I don't know how I did it.

John

Thanks all!

Haha! Spot on Ian/John! To be honnest there is some sweat on my forehead when ballasting. Its very very difficult for me to do this detailed work. Especially when looking at the great work others have done in this area.

I've got only about 24 meters of ballasting ahead, so I reckon I'll be more experienced in this area at the end than I am now I'll skip the switches for the time being. I'll do them later on, when I've got more confidence.

Nevertheless, I'm pleased with the results sofar. I had expected worse.



Rinus

Hi Rinus

very good ballasting

In the last picture it looks just like good old M track

Mike

It looks very Profi, Rinus. Of course, ballast has dark as well as lighter colored rocks in it.
Peter

Edited by user 16 August 2012 22:21:28(UTC)  | Reason: spelling

Nice job, Rinus.

Pierre.

Rinus,

excellent job,

a hint or two: for faster results.

I use a toothbrush to get rid of exess ballasting and use purely a spraygun to do the ballasting, 50% woodglue, 50% water, 2 or 3 drops of detergent (per liter).
the end results are without cork underlay: the track after many years gets a bit rusty and the middle contact tongues are slightly oxidiced (shouldn't happen with the stainless steel connectors).
with cork underlay: the excess glue is absorbed by the cork and the track connecter, tongues are as new.

regards.,

John

Excellent Job.