Impressive John, very impressive!
I love the craftsmanship!
I wish we'd live a little closer to each other, we'd be having sooo much fun with the two mad doctors performing these kind of "surgeries" and "implants" together!!
Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk!
Cheers

Thanks Ray,
There is fun and frustration doing these conversions.
For instance, yesterday, I could'nt get the interior lights going.
Using a multimeter I've found out there was no power going to the led's bejond the resistor. after I've found the fault the led's (yellow) are too weak to shine through.
So I've started again with different led's.(white-yellow)
They ok now but the interior led's in the motorcar are white -white so I have to change them to same colour.
the fun is I'm getting somewere, slowly but surely.

Thanks for you compliment.

I hope it may encourage others to explore these options

regards.,
John

Very good, John.

Thanks for the idea with the four-pole couplers. A good idea for my 3028+4028 set.

Thanks Nev

the Fleischmann couplings are nowhere near a price of an ESU fx decoder.
My objective was and is to add as many "Beiwagen" to the motorcar.
The outside conversion is not even noticable so I don't know what you mean by "horrible".
I take your point of an ESU fx decoder, this would not eliminate electrical couplings unless you prefer a pickupshoe in every "Beiwagen" (unmotorized railcar), which I do not.

It is also noticable after 2 comments to the forum. you derive to such conclusion.

What we normally do, is, suggest an other option is available.



regards.,
John

One other thing, John:

I have seen the two extra holes in the grey bulb holder many times, but never thought of your idea to use all the holes for two LEDs or bulbs.

Thanks once more for good ideas.

Regarding the coupler holder, would it be sufficiant to install the metal holder backwards, as the pivoting hole is not in the center?
Do you have a part number for the holder?

Svein,
No,
the reason for it, because the hole is not in the centre (coupler holder), if you reverse it the hole does'nt line up with the hole on the chassis.
I tried this and found out quickly it does'nt work that way.

Another option would be, if you find identical shafts (but these ones that I've used, are normally used as an exchange for the old couplings. e.g BR 120

When you say coupler holder do you mean shortcoupling shaft
The holder number is: 671860.

The first thought I had was getting an electrical coupling, having converted most of my locos with new coupling shafts: BR 152, Br 120, Br 151, Br 218, Rh 1043 (ÖBB), I did'nt think they needed such a wide sidemovement. (s-curves)
I've only put them onto the track last week and found out that the coupling shaft and coupling holder in its original form is'nt going to work.
I also tried to avoid to alter the coupling shaft being plastic and use the metal holder, but this was'nt sufficient either.
So both parts have to be altered.
Andi's comment about using a fx decoder sounds great but I can't see if one fits into the small space provided by the light assembly.

It is always easy to say in hineside what could or should of been done.

I try to work things through before starting with any alterations and also try to avoid to change the loco, carriage and keep it as much in in its original glory form.

The original wire connection between carriages was not reliable with derailments (wires too stiff).
The other inconvenience was, if you wanted to seperated them you had to take the housing off, everytime.

Having started the conversion I did'nt want to half finish it or abandon it, so one has to get on with the job as best as one can do and try to find solutions on the way.

Another comment I like to make, although the cutting out and trimming looks a bit rough on the photo, it is not noticable at all when you look at it, at normal size.
And I don't look at my trains from the bottom up, with other words you can't see it anyhow.

The led's I arrange them in such a way (2 in line)that the (+) + (-)are pressed into the bulbholder and the other two leads are soldered together on the reverse side.

I hope this helps.

regards.,
John
I'm saving for a Canon 5D

Andi,
I've got a lokprogrammer so I should be able to follow your instructions.

I did'nt know one was able to cancel these functions Aux 3 + Aux 4.
Thanks.

John