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Offline Gregor  
#1 Posted : 18 April 2015 19:09:59(UTC)
Gregor

Netherlands   
Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 996
Location: Netherlands
Hi all,

Is there a way to fix a pantograph in a position just below where it touches the overhead wire?
Today a beautiful Blauer Pfeil arrived, and it has the narrow type pantograph. In some curves it may lose contact and will spring upward if not fixed.

Gregor


Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 18 April 2015 19:51:16(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi!

Some people use nylon threads for that purpose.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline witzlerh  
#3 Posted : 19 April 2015 05:42:11(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
I went to a local fishing sportsman store. They carry line for 3lb test. About 0.008" thin and quite invisible.

As I am not a fisherman, I now have to relearn how to tie reliable knots and not have the length change when tying the knot.
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
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Offline Gregor  
#4 Posted : 19 April 2015 12:07:49(UTC)
Gregor

Netherlands   
Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 996
Location: Netherlands
Thanks! I might try that. My original thought was to take out the springs and fix the joints with superglue. Anyone tried that before?

Gregor
Offline witzlerh  
#5 Posted : 19 April 2015 13:51:51(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
It would not be recommended to glue the pantograph. You would need a noticeable amount and it would devalue the resale as it is no longer operational. Also there will be the odd guest that would want to push down on the pantograph and break the glue an even the pantograph!

It will also be very hard to transport the lok with the pantographs up.
With thread or fishing line, the pantograph can be dropped up and down when not used (prototypical) and you can also cut the thread when you do want full operation.
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
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Offline Gregor  
#6 Posted : 21 April 2015 19:51:06(UTC)
Gregor

Netherlands   
Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 996
Location: Netherlands
Hi all,

I do not intend to move or store my trains in the next 3 decades, and all visitors know they will die a horrible death when they touch anything. So I tried the glue method on an old, already slightly deformed pantograph.

UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage

Happy with the result, the glue is hardly noticable, if you dull it with some wheathering powder.

Main pro: The pantograph does not lean backward anymore during driving.
Main con: It is now more difficult to take the train off the rails or put it on, as you can not lift the loc. Instead you have to turn it onto the rails.

Another method would be to replace the spring with a piece of solid wire or fishing wire, but it will be difficult to get the pantograph to the right height.

I have applied the glue method on the Blauer Pfeil and my GG1 whos pantographs jump up too heigh in the tunnels. The other trains are OK as they are.

Best regards,
Gregor
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Offline Webmaster  
#7 Posted : 21 April 2015 19:55:37(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
I must repeat my tip given to me by a shop owner in the 90's - use upside down N-scale flex track as the "catenary" in tunnels... Smile
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Offline RayF  
#8 Posted : 22 April 2015 08:56:03(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
I use the newer, more realistic catenary on my layout, and getting the locos with narrow pantographs to stay on the wire on curves is a challenge. As a consequence I often run the locos with the pantographs down unless I'm taking photos or making videos.

The solution that Gregor used is very tempting, but as I keep my locos in drawers that are only slightly taller than loco height it would not be practical.

The fishing line solution is one I'd heard of before, but I have yet to try it. I fear my clumsy fingers would not be up to the fiddly task of trying to tie a knot in a piece of invisible line.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline hxmiesa  
#9 Posted : 22 April 2015 11:42:35(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,519
Location: Spain
If the wire prevents the panto from moving upwards, there is no problem in pressing it down, all the way to the "click" and it stays down. -So no problems with storrage, right¿?
Also, the superglue is just for the knots. It does not have to touch anything on the loco itself. -So no permanent damage or smearing, right¿?
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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Offline RayF  
#10 Posted : 22 April 2015 12:17:42(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Go to Quoted Post
If the wire prevents the panto from moving upwards, there is no problem in pressing it down, all the way to the "click" and it stays down. -So no problems with storrage, right¿?
Also, the superglue is just for the knots. It does not have to touch anything on the loco itself. -So no permanent damage or smearing, right¿?


I think Gregor's method is to glue the joints of the pantograph so they don't move. There is no seperate wire.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline NZMarklinist  
#11 Posted : 22 April 2015 19:31:37(UTC)
NZMarklinist

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,757
Location: Auckland NZ
Hi All,

Having considered this issue and talked to other Markinists about it, tying the Panto more or less just below the wire is the most practical, if a bit fiddley ! It does allow the occasional touch with rise and fall of the pantograph. ThumpUp A rather pleasing sight IMHO Smile
For me on my small layout I was going to have catenary in the tunnels, however, I have scrapped the idea of the small layout (that's another story Wink ) and I am going to design a larger and more complicated one, which may preclude full Catenary for the usual practical reasons Scared RollEyes In this case I will tie the Pantos with fine nylon fishing line ThumpUp

Glen
Auckland NZ

" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !

CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
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Offline Gregor  
#12 Posted : 24 April 2015 15:17:25(UTC)
Gregor

Netherlands   
Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 996
Location: Netherlands
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
I think Gregor's method is to glue the joints of the pantograph so they don't move. There is no seperate wire.

Indeed I removed the spring and glued the joints. No permanent damage to the loc itself. Some pantographs are decades old and got sloppy. They leaned over backwards while driving. I gave them a second life, instead of replacing them. They look symmetric again.
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