Good morning all, I just broke my rule of never buy a loco that seller cant test. I got a 3015 untested and its come back to bite me. I also got a new roller test stand so I figured this was a great time to try it out.Put the loco on rollers and nothing . No lights ,noise ,not a murmer. After several oh shits and you fxxxzwe idiots I went on the Forum to a thread about crocs and got some great help from Jacquess. The loco was set for overhead.To make a story more boring I did manage to get it running. Rough at first but then ok.It was on test stand for about half hour going slow, fast in both directions so I figured job done and put everything away.Next day I took the cab body off and put greese on all the cogs and oiled the motor shaft and axles, put back on test stand and nothing. Many more oh shits etc and the only way it would run was if I rocked it from side to side on stand. It would run for a minute or two and stop. I checked out Ritter and can get a complete motor for 90 euro + postage and if I do also 2 sliders. The sliders are not that bad, but new motor and sliders would be best. I think I saw on one thread where someone had made theirs digital.What type of motor would you have to use to go this way and what else would you have to change . What motor could you put in without too much troube or is not worth the trouble. I thought Id ask before I bite the bullet and order the motor from Ritter. I also dont know the year and only thing I can see which I have not seen on any others is on mine the front of all the buffers is white and cab roof is all grey including the two wires. It has traction tires and reverse lever . My transformer will chamge the direction so I dowt know why the lever is still on it .I belive the the stock big motors are not very efficient so maybe it would be better to change. Anyway I will leave it with you and hopefully someone can come up with a good solution. Oh I cant show pictures as my camera is broken. Take care Eddie

Hi Ray, I did not even think of that. Can I still get brushes for 3015 from any dealer or would I have to get from somewhere like Ritter ?Thanks Eddie

Antonio, thanks very much and I will check to make sure that I did not over oil. Kind regards Eddie

Thanks Dangermouse, I will try and check out the brushes. Eddie

Hi!
Most SFCM and LFCM locos use the brushes E600300. The 3015 uses brushes E600350.

https://www.marklin-user...s&t=26538#post401606

All you will need from your 3015 are good brushes and a good armature and you will end up with a loko configured to work on any Marklin layout.

You may also have a (small) problem with the inversion relay. Typical in those years.
A picture of what's inside the nose of the loco would help us providing specific debugging tips
Cheers

Well I would expect that much.
The point here is to look at which type of relay is actually mounted there, and then we can pinpoint specific things to trace the problems and how to fix them.
Not all relays were identical thru the years, thus the problems vary.
Cheers

A dud relay was one reason why my F800 restoration ended up with a Lokpilot and a permanent magnet (the other being that I mostly run digital, so analog locos wouldn't see much action). They're complicated little mechanisms when they're not playing ball.

Yep, the only weakness is if you're using the old blue transformers, as their reversing pulse can fry decoders.

The Lokpilots do need to be programmed to get the best from them, but if you know someone with a digital controller it only takes about 5mins to do.

You really can't tell that either my F800 or 3031 have been converted aside from the constant intensity lighting, everything is tucked away under the shell. Still need to fine-tune my 3001 as it sometimes won't move off in one direction and growls a lot when eventually persuaded to, but runs smoothly the other way.