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Offline BrandonVA  
#1 Posted : 08 October 2012 19:21:50(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
I've got a Marklin 3318 (DRG BR18.4) that's got a small paint chip in the red paint near the buffers, and a couple of chips on one of the wheels. What's the best match for this in terms of colour and finish? I'm hoping I can find of bottle of model paint that's a near (or perfect) match, and not have to do too much mixing.

Thanks in advance!

-Brandon
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Offline kbvrod  
#2 Posted : 09 October 2012 14:45:41(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Brandon,all,

>I've got a Marklin 3318 (DRG BR18.4) that's got a small paint chip in the red paint near the buffers, and a couple of chips on one of the wheels. What's the best match for this in terms of colour and finish? I'm hoping I can find of bottle of model paint that's a near (or perfect) match, and not have to do too much mixing.<

I have found the Testors make a (almost) perfect match for red/rot for German loks:

1150 - flat/matte
1103 - gloss

1/4oz bottles

Dr D



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Offline BrandonVA  
#3 Posted : 09 October 2012 15:02:41(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Thanks Dr. D! I think you have probably answered this before, but I couldn't find it. I'll give it a shot and post some before/after photos. It may be a little underwhelming, the spots are pretty small, but I'm a perfectionist about some things.

-Brandon
Offline abisel  
#4 Posted : 16 January 2013 17:24:35(UTC)
abisel

United States   
Joined: 07/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 139
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Just for fun, I sent Marklin.de an email asking for the color codes they use.

I specifically asked for the black and red colors on the old 3048, but I suspect they use the same colors today.

There answer was the RAL color codes of:
RAL9005 for black and RAL3000 for red.

They did not mention if a final clear topcoat was applied or if the paint was acrylic or enamel.

The RAL Color Code chart on http://www.ralcolor.com/ gives us the info we need.
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Offline BrandonVA  
#5 Posted : 16 January 2013 21:09:26(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
The colours Kevin suggested worked pretty well. I was just doing some minor touch up, so it's pretty invisible. With some of the older locos there is almost a semi gloss that's a bit more on the glossy side, I think due to the reasons Marcus described in the other post about co lour here. Especially the sort of shiny black on the locos of the 60s and 70s, in particular my late 70s BR03 (3085) has that look...but it's also well play worn.

-Brandon
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Offline mb300e4m  
#6 Posted : 08 July 2013 20:31:22(UTC)
mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
I have tried both of the colours/colors that Dr. D suggested and had bad luck with both when painting new (replacement) diecast wheels. One coat is almost transparent, two coats is not much better when using it sparingly. I always clean the new wheels (and old ones) before painting with alcohol. Am I doing something wrong?

I have never been a lover of Testors paint, but the reds look terrific in the bottle; but not so good on the wheels.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline kbvrod  
#7 Posted : 08 July 2013 20:54:12(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: mb300e4m Go to Quoted Post
I have tried both of the colours/colors that Dr. D suggested and had bad luck with both when painting new (replacement) diecast wheels. One coat is almost transparent, two coats is not much better when using it sparingly. I always clean the new wheels (and old ones) before painting with alcohol. Am I doing something wrong?

I have never been a lover of Testors paint, but the reds look terrific in the bottle; but not so good on the wheels.

Peter B.


Hi Peter,all,
First,I suggested Testors because it is a close match and can be had in hobby shops that don't even carry model trains.Next,touch up painting with a brush is fine,repainting wheels requires an airbrush for best coverage.And yes cleaning the wheels is important(oil/grease/dirt,etc)
Here are also some tips:
One never knows how l-o-n-g that paint has been sitting,either at the shop or at home.You have to add some thinner and mix it with a paint mixer(Badger sells one,as others and even a small cocktail works! BigGrin )
Be patient!Just because one or two coats didn't work doesn't mean that 3 or 4 or 5 coats won't look better!Cool
A simple airbrush will do the trick and they can be had for cheap,....your air supply might coast you more,depending,....
Now if the they are just wheels get some cardboard and painters tape.Fold over the ends of a strips of tape and attach them to the cardboard.Stick on the bloody wheels and spray the 'em from all angles!
Wheels with axles? Clothespins,clamp 'em and spray 'em!

Dr D

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Offline mb300e4m  
#8 Posted : 18 September 2014 00:55:17(UTC)
mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: kbvrod Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: mb300e4m Go to Quoted Post
I have tried both of the colours/colors that Dr. D suggested and had bad luck with both when painting new (replacement) diecast wheels. One coat is almost transparent, two coats is not much better when using it sparingly. I always clean the new wheels (and old ones) before painting with alcohol. Am I doing something wrong?

I have never been a lover of Testors paint, but the reds look terrific in the bottle; but not so good on the wheels.

Peter B.


Hi Peter,all,
First,I suggested Testors because it is a close match and can be had in hobby shops that don't even carry model trains.Next,touch up painting with a brush is fine,repainting wheels requires an airbrush for best coverage.And yes cleaning the wheels is important(oil/grease/dirt,etc)

Dr D



Hi Dr. D,

I recently discovered the Vallejo (Spain) model paint range and have found that their Red (Bermellon) 70.947 is a great match for DB/DRG loks. It is a match to RAL 3000. It is acrylic and very easy to use, although I have discovered that if brushed, wet the brush in some tap water first, then wipe off most of it before dipping in the paint. This helps with the cleanup of the brushes. It is a good tip, I guess, when using any acrylic paint. The paint does not wick up between the bristles to the same extent.

Vallejo is carried by many Hobby shops and also at Hobby Lobby in the US of A.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by mb300e4m
Offline kbvrod  
#9 Posted : 18 September 2014 19:49:22(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
I only suggested Testors.As it matched the RAL rot and was easy to obtain.And it did match 36XX and 37XX lok colors.Do you think that M used the same paints through the years or even cared about matching DRG/DB color?If you weather the things no one will notice.Angry
Offline Tom Jessop  
#10 Posted : 17 October 2014 23:17:45(UTC)
Tom Jessop

Australia   
Joined: 14/12/2002(UTC)
Posts: 800
Location: Newcastle NSW Australia


Have had a talk to a few paint shops [automobile ] about mixing RAL colours , they all say that they would need the actual mix formula to be able to produce similar paint . I would think these would only be available from paint producers in Europe which makes it a bit hard for someone from down below. I am going to have a look at some manufactures sites to see if anything is available ,probably kept under lock & key in case formulae is stolen & used by some other company..


Cheers Tom in Oz.
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