 Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC) Posts: 2,423 Location: Sweden
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How do you do to connect the outer rails on K-track on a permanent layout? Do you use the 7500 ground connector or are there better methods? I have tried soldering but it does not work, at least not with normal solder and a normal soldering iron. I'm afraid the 7500 may give bad contact in the long term due to corrotion etc.
The center rail is no problem. It can be soldered at the contact fingers between the segments.
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 Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,283 Location: Strathpine QLD
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Perz,
with the type of steel used in the rail, there are 2 ways:
Use Orthophosphoric acid as the flux. and Lead/tin Solder
Or Silver solder and a Paste Silver solder flux.
NN
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wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now an waiting for a new shiny tin Hip
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory |
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Joined: 13/07/2004(UTC) Posts: 653 Location: Karlstad, Sweden
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You can solder to the rail-joints, that's where I've made most of my ground connections. Works fine. :)
Like said before - it is possible also to solder to the rail itself, yet requires additional "items" like nevw stated. |
Fredrik. * ECoS 2 + ECoSDetector *CS2 2.0.1 (0) CAN-bus only *CS 2.0.4 WWW: Modellbanan |
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 Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,062 Location: Beverly, MA
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Hi Perz,all, Originally Posted by: perz  How do you do to connect the outer rails on K-track on a permanent layout? Do you use the 7500 ground connector or are there better methods? I have tried soldering but it does not work, at least not with normal solder and a normal soldering iron. I'm afraid the 7500 may give bad contact in the long term due to corrotion etc.
The center rail is no problem. It can be soldered at the contact fingers between the segments. M K is stainless steel and requires special solder.I always got some Atlas code 100 rail joiners and soldered to those. 3rd rail: take a rotary motor tool and grind away the chemical blackener on the underside of the K-track,then you can solder a feeder wire anywhere you want. Dr D
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Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC) Posts: 2,423 Location: Sweden
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Originally Posted by: Fredrik You can solder to the rail-joints, that's where I've made most of my ground connections. Works fine. :)
Like said before - it is possible also to solder to the rail itself, yet requires additional "items" like nevw stated. I have tried to solder to the rail-joints, but I didn't succeed. Kevin's advice to get rail-joints made of another more easily solderable material might be the solution. I have also thought of conductive glue. I know it exists but it seems to be very difficult to get hold of it.
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,032
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Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,062 Location: Beverly, MA
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Hi all, Welcome back Dale!!!  Dr D
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Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC) Posts: 2,423 Location: Sweden
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I finally managed to solder to the rail joints. I just had to get a really fat soldering iron. The one I normally use for other soldering work did not do it.
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Joined: 22/06/2011(UTC) Posts: 429
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Originally Posted by: perz I finally managed to solder to the rail joints. I just had to get a really fat soldering iron. The one I normally use for other soldering work did not do it. One important thing that one must think of when soldering is that not only should the solder itself be warm, so should the wire/material you are soldering to. Of course this "trick" varies by material used, but I try to follow this "trick" if possible and if it can be done without damaging components or other critical parts. If both parts are warm the solder will bond better and the end result will get better than if one of the materials is warm and the other cold. This is what I have learned myself from practicing and other experience. I am sure you know this already, just wanted to lift it.  |
SBB & BLS - Era IV - VI
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Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,062 Location: Beverly, MA
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Hi perz,all, Originally Posted by: perz I finally managed to solder to the rail joints. I just had to get a really fat soldering iron. The one I normally use for other soldering work did not do it. No need.Replace the M rail joiners with either Atlas/Peco code 100. Dr D
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