I have a delta version. I like this eloc very much. It drives also very nice.

In the eighties this was one of the topmodels from Marklin. In 1993 the price for this loco with old three star engine
was about 150 till 160 euro. It is very nice if you have old pricelists.

It is not a mfx starterset. The loc has the old 60901 decoder.

No, only its chasis. It weighs about 360 gram.

But if you can buy this loc out of the starterkit for about 100 till 120 euro. You will not be disappointed. Because the locs drives very nice.

I just purchased the 29517 starter set (without the C-track and electrics) and had the loco converted to Marklin digital (60901 - I think) by the dealer... Runs really nice...

Guus,

You could check

"29850 230 Volt Digital-Mega-Startpackung Schweiz mit 2 Zügen. Schnellzug und Güterzug mit großer C-Gleis-Anlage, Transformator und Mobile Station.
Spur: H0
Epoche: V
Merkmal: Systems

Vorbild: Elektrolokomotiven Serie 460 und Serie 660 (Ae 6/6), 3 Schnellzugwagen Typ EW IV und 4 Güterwagen der Schweizerischen Bundesbahnen (SBB). "

This set has mfx decoders in the loco's.

best regards

Olav

Got two of them - one is for dreaming ... [:p]. The other is realistic [xx(]

John

Best way to go

Hi John, all,

As the 37510 comes with a simplified non-mfx decoder, lacking F1, F2, and F3 outputs, I would assume that the green 3/6 in the 29510 starter set has the same lean decoder as well.
This would require a decoder replacement in order to add additional functions.
How about one of those new mfx Loksounds?

I have no experience with Loksound yet, but from the site,
http://www.loksound.de/index.php?showId=152
I would think that the "Universal Altbau Elok" decoder #62461 would be most suitable.
Any other opinions welcomed.
It will sell at Lokshop for $161.

I haven't checked the space requirements for the Ae 3/6 though!

I also have a Delta version from the 29517 starter set. Just finished conversion with a 60901 and it drives very nice and surprisingly silently.

The 4-lamp and simple diode based swiss-light change system (which does not comprise red) is quite bad-looking when compared with my Ce6/8 39560's. Which reminded me.... What if I added that feature?

After thinking about it, using double colour SMD LEDs (which would be a very clean solution indeed) is a nice option but would require a custom made PCB, and I'm not in the mood for that. So I took the lazy way out and ordered a complete 39560 swiss-light system:

1 x 606218 Leiterplatte CH-Lichtw 7.72 € @ lokshop

2 X 606217 Leiterplatte Stirn-Bel 7.72 € @ lokshop

2 x 214033 Beleuchtungssockel 0.80 € @ lokshop

Which adds up to 24.76 €. I feel it's a nice price to have a very cool and original Ae3/6.

To try the idea, I piggy-backed the Ae3/6 housing on top of the Ce6/8 croc and tried the fx. It actually looked quite nice, with just this precarious arrangement. I believe that minor tune-ups in the lichtkörper parts will be needed to make it work perfectly, but think it can be done.

When I do get the spares and get my hands to it, I'll report further.

Another - non related - idea I'm having is to convert my 2666's BR80 to DC motor and UB's Intellisound (the smallest sound decoder I've seen) and also installing a pair of Krois couplers and who knows, a smoke generator!

Haven't tried any of this yet, but I'll study it for sure and report back. This would become the coolest H0 BR 80 ever....

Luis

And I thought I was being original......

Two related questions for the community:

1 - Are white LED (which are actually bluish) really more realistic in old prototypes? Won't they look like modern xenon-discharge headlights, instead of tungsten-filament lamps of yore?

2 - Geartrain lighting, as suggested in Bart's link, and in a number of M's loks, such as in my BR10 and also in my 60901 converted Delta BR41. Is this realistic? Do prototypes really have these? What's the purpose?

Luis

I beleive that there are "true white" LED's available now, but I am not at home where my electronics catalogs are. I'll check it out tomorrow at work. Been thinking along the same lines for a few loks I have.

Interesting!
If you happen to open your SwissColl 1 (isn't it 34637?), you may be able to get the part number on the LED circuit in the front. Can't find it in the M* database.
It shoud be different from the #214259 with yellow leds.
Does the loco have additional functions (spotlights, red tail light) as well?

BTW did I notice the 39607 SwissColl IV on one of your layout pics?
You lucky bastard
That is Mr7's all time favourite, but we have this General Agreement with the Finance Controller that suggests us to buy 2nd hand or special offers only, so we let go the Lokshop's €235 stock, and since then, they are selling for €320 to €401 on Ebay [V]

The warm white LEDs are indeed much better than the normal white ones. I've used these from dotlight.de:
http://shop.dotlight.de/.../167_172/products_id/410

I have modified a 37540 with one of these, and it looks much better now. Unfortunately, I haven't got a picture of it to show you. But I've also made a danish PU signal with them, and that you can see here:
http://www.ejberg.dk/trains/signalbrake/signal4.mpg

Good! 37637 white led mystery solved. Underscoring the notion that bulbs do have the right colour

Back to the 3/6:
Here is my 3/6 family. Left to right: 10460, 10432, 10453, 10426 and 10406.
Or in M* terms: 3151, 3167, 3169, 37510, and 29516 (aka 3167.1).

Maybe, a 3351/10439 is still out somewhere to be adopted in the future.



Unfortunately, the newborn of the family has an inborn mental disorder: the new 37510, which has the new Märklin/ESU Lokpilot Lite decoder, suffers from an extreme form of Lokpilot's Alzheimer.
It is extremely sensitive to power drops, and it stalls and jumps more than any loc. Actually, my K test track is reasonably clean, and I have never seen this problem with any of my 6090x locs, and neither with my Lokpilot Classic-equiped one.

That's why the 37510 still is on its elevated roller test stand in the picture, preventing it from jumping off the table when resuming at full speed after a power drop at low speed. I have run it in for about 12h now, and on the test stand, it behaves well. Back on the track, no improvement though. Next weekend, I'll open it and check the soldering and ground wiring. If unsuccessful, the LP may need a large buffering capacitor.

I agree totally... Awesome.... I really like the Swiss stuff... You have a lot of soldering ahead of you!

Guus: The one where that (wide moving) 2-axle bogie is mounted

Best Regards
John

BTW, parts list:

1 x 60901;

2 X 606217 Leiterplatte Stirn-Beleuchtung

2 x 214033 Beleuchtungssockel

1 x 606218 Leiterplatte CH-Lichtw

Wiring was copied from my 39560 beauty-krok. If someone wishes for any details of it, just let me know.

Now, I have F2 free on this decoder..... mmmmmmmm.... What's the part number of that führerraumbeleuchtungplatine of my Franco-Crosti Insider?????? I think I'm gonna order a couple of parts more.... Then again, a couple of new style Telexes wouldn't be too bad, either!

Luis

Hi, xxup,


I'll document it this weekend and post the wiring scheme. I'll do it with photos-

It's actually extremely easy to do. I would say that if you're handy with soldering, 1-2 hours will be enough for this job.


Luis

No need for this work.... I use a simple 15-20€ 11 watt JBC for all my electronic soldering work. So far no problems whatsoever.

Luis

Hi Adrian,

The pictures are a bit bad, since my camera is not quite state of the art anymore, or I'm not much of a photographer, your pick.

The controller board 606218 comes with most of the wiring in place. You should remove one of the two brown ground wires shunted together at solder pad 4 of the upper right area of the photo below. You must also remove the switch selector (catenary/slider) that is included in this board and shunt two of the pads (seen in the centre of the pic below). I decided to shunt pads left and middle (referred to the photo below) to use the upper power input solder pad. Otherwise you may shunt right and middle and use the larger rectangular solder pad for power input.



This is the controller board 606218, double-taped to the back of the decoder.

Wiring:

Lower left of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Grey to the front LED PCB;
- Yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Brown/yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Orange to the front LED PCB.

Upper left of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Orange to the rear LED PCB.
- Brown/yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Grey to the front LED PCB;
- Yellow to the front LED PCB.

Upper right of the picture, five horizontally aligned solder pads, (4 and 5 are actually shunted together) from left to right:

1 - Red power input, coming from the original power source selector of the locomotive (catenary or slider);
2 - Decoder function wire, your choice of F1 or F2;
3 - Decoder violet wire;
4 - Chassis ground brown wire;
5 - Decoder ground brown wire.

Lower right of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Decoder grey wire;
- Decoder yellow wire;
- Decoder orange wire;



This is the rear LED PCB, to show you its orientation, tapered side down. True for rear and front.



This is to show how the 606217 is inserted in the 214033 socket. The lower studs of the 606217 fit in the socket.



This is to show you how the 214033 socket is installed in chassis.

Wiring for the LED PCBs:

Looking from the back of the PCB:

1 2

3 4

1 - Brown-yellow coming from the controller board;

2 - Orange coming from the controller board;

3 - Yellow coming from the controller board;

4 - Grey coming from the controller board.

Note that now you have only three decoder wires that you didn't solder to the controller board: motor green and blue and the remaining function output.

I'm considering several options for this: cab lighting, modern style telexes or a whistle, removed from my BR18.4 (to upgrade to loksound...). This last option requires a somewhat large board, which may not fit, maybe snugged against the roof.

Hope this helps. Any doubt, just drop me an email it's in my profile.

Have fun!

Luis