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Offline MacGyver467  
#1 Posted : 20 December 2005 00:21:27(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
I have a Borsig 3301 that I got about five to six years ago and decided that it was time to upgrade to Digital...what better time than now since MFX upgrades are available.

This was a big project for me to tackle as my first, so I made sure I had everything I needed ahead of time.

The total upgrade took about four hours since I was taking my time and doing everything meticulously. The loc also needed a good cleaning. The results are great! My Borsig now accelerates smooth and isn't loud when running compared to the three-pole motor that was in there.

The only situation I had was when re-soldering the new leads onto the light sockets...the plastic has a lower boiling point than the metal, so the metal contacts started to move while I was soldering. The movement was minimal, so they still work thankfully.

One thing I didn't see in the instructions was what the purpose of the purple lead is on the decoder. It says "decoder ground", but there's no explanation or instructions on what it's for and if it's needed.

I think my next upgrade is going to be my Class 89. I'm also planning on drilling out the fake rear lights and installing real lights on it.

There is one running characteristic that is slightly annoying, though. The front non-powered wheels will stop moving if the loc traverses a switch. Any ideas on how to fix that? The only thing I could think of was buying traction tires and redneck-engineering them onto a pair of wheels without grooves.

-MacG467
Offline Steven86  
#2 Posted : 20 December 2005 00:41:16(UTC)
Steven86


Joined: 06/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 291
Location: ,
Congratulations on your first conversion to Digital Smile
Offline 2ndChancer  
#3 Posted : 20 December 2005 00:56:57(UTC)
2ndChancer


Joined: 06/10/2005(UTC)
Posts: 587
Location: Hong Kong,
Welcome to the Digital World.

I've run into the same "non-driving wheels don't turn" situation lately. I found that it's the accumulated grease & dirt that prevents the wheels from turning, since there's no driving force, and those wheels are mostly just floating on the track.
I solve it by using a QTip and alcohol to clean the axle. Now they are running freely.

There's another possibility - the preloaded spring gets old, simply remove the assembly and bend it a little(if you feel comfortable doing so).

As with the bulb socket soldering, check if ur soldering iron is too strong, or the contact time is too long. Use a hooby type soldering iron, presolder both the wire tip and the socker lead individually before putting them together, this will help shorten the soldering time needed.

For the "digital ground", I hope others with better knowledge can answer. I sometimes leave it, sometimes us it as the bulb ground, either case don't see any difference.

Hope this helps, and keep going.

Eric
Offline franciscohg  
#4 Posted : 20 December 2005 01:28:01(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
Hi Mac, congratulations, another solution for your soldering problem is to use a heat sink.
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline laalves  
#5 Posted : 20 December 2005 02:17:14(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
Hi, welcome to the forum.

The purple cable in Märklin decoders is a (-) ground and it's supposed to be used with things like old-style Märklin sound modules and some of the LED lighting PCBs that Märklin also makes.

If you are talking about a ESU decoder, then it's totally different and it's function F2, exactly the same as what the green cable does, i.e., switch a function, except that the green cable is function F1.....

Luis
Offline MacGyver467  
#6 Posted : 20 December 2005 03:22:32(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Before the upgrade, I totally cleaned the frame, rods, and wheels with alcohol to get rid of the accumulated gunk. After that, I started my build-up with digital. I did re-oil the non-powered wheels...should I avoid doing that?

Also, my iron is a Weller 35W model. Should I find something less powerful?

Thanks for the clarification on the purple wire. And I'm using Marklin's MFX modules.

-MacG467
Offline MacGyver467  
#7 Posted : 20 December 2005 03:24:16(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by 2ndChancer
There's another possibility - the preloaded spring gets old, simply remove the assembly and bend it a little(if you feel comfortable doing so).


There was no "preloaded spring" like you mention. The ground wheels are in the tender along with the pickup shoe.

-MacG467
Offline 2ndChancer  
#8 Posted : 20 December 2005 07:11:42(UTC)
2ndChancer


Joined: 06/10/2005(UTC)
Posts: 587
Location: Hong Kong,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MacGyver467
<br />
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by 2ndChancer
There's another possibility - the preloaded spring gets old, simply remove the assembly and bend it a little(if you feel comfortable doing so).


There was no "preloaded spring" like you mention. The ground wheels are in the tender along with the pickup shoe.

-MacG467


OK, it's a BR53 w 2x6x8 config., I suppose you are talking about those 6 that's not driven, right? Have thought of weight distribution change but it's not originally equipped w a relay. No harm to think along this line.

And as most experts in this forum suggest, I will avoid oiling unless it's been run for a long while. The wheels (when lifting up the loco) should be able to run free with just a push of ur finger.

Can't think of any helpful steps right now.

Eric

Cool
Offline MacGyver467  
#9 Posted : 20 December 2005 17:13:20(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Yeah, the BR53 is what I've got. I have the gray paint scheme and coal tender which was the "test version" of the Borsig.

I'll re-clean the front wheels to get rid of the oil I applied. If that doesn't work, I'm defeinitely going to do the rubber tire trick I thought of.
Offline Trainingtime  
#10 Posted : 20 December 2005 20:11:32(UTC)
Trainingtime


Joined: 09/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 315
Location: Ohio, USA
I found a small soldering iron at a local hobby store. It has a switch to from 15w to 30w. It works nicely.
Offline Maxi  
#11 Posted : 20 December 2005 20:55:24(UTC)
Maxi


Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Wawa, Ontario
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Trainingtime
<br />I found a small soldering iron at a local hobby store. It has a switch to from 15w to 30w. It works nicely.


I prefer the Binford series. biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin
Actually I do most of my work with a 60W iron, you learn to be quick.
Offline Charlie  
#12 Posted : 21 December 2005 04:45:19(UTC)
Charlie


Joined: 15/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 707
Location: Texas, USA
Ouch, 60 Watts. Less is more...

Charlie
Offline Maxi  
#13 Posted : 21 December 2005 15:35:21(UTC)
Maxi


Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Wawa, Ontario
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Charlie
<br />Ouch, 60 Watts. Less is more...

Charlie


Haven't lost one yet.
Offline rschaffr  
#14 Posted : 21 December 2005 17:04:42(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,176
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
I use a Weller W-60 60 watt controlled temperature iron in all my work. It is high power but is controlled temperature. I use a tip that only gets hot enough to melt the solder. You need the higher power if you are soldering to a larger mass that takes a lot of power to heat up.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline MacGyver467  
#15 Posted : 21 December 2005 19:27:49(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Maxi
I prefer the Binford series. biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin
Actually I do most of my work with a 60W iron, you learn to be quick.


I saw that one in Home Depot as well! It's the 1000W iron connected to a 426Hemi, right?

-MacG467
Offline Maxi  
#16 Posted : 21 December 2005 22:15:00(UTC)
Maxi


Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Wawa, Ontario
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MacGyver467
<br />
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Maxi
I prefer the Binford series. biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin
Actually I do most of my work with a 60W iron, you learn to be quick.


I saw that one in Home Depot as well! It's the 1000W iron connected to a 426Hemi, right?

-MacG467


Home Depot doesn't sell Binford, so some one else must have made it.[:0]
Offline MacGyver467  
#17 Posted : 21 December 2005 22:50:03(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Maxi
Home Depot doesn't sell Binford, so some one else must have made it.[:0]


What's real odd is that I can't find it in the Binford Tools Catalog either: http://www.hiarchive.co.uk/binford.php

I swear I saw it at HD...they had a live demonstration going on too. It could solder joints over 1 foot away from the tip!

-MacG467
Offline john black  
#18 Posted : 22 December 2005 00:42:35(UTC)
john black

United States   
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC)
Posts: 12,139
Location: New York, NY
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MacGyver467
<br />It's the 1000W iron connected to a 426Hemi, right?

Oh, how do I love Tool Time ... biggrinbiggrinbiggrin
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide

Offline foumaro  
#19 Posted : 23 December 2005 09:12:24(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,420
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
I have the grey 3301 and i want to convert it to digital.If you took
any photos of your trial please send them.biggrinbiggrinbiggrin
Offline Guus  
#20 Posted : 23 December 2005 10:25:30(UTC)
Guus

Netherlands   
Joined: 13/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,616
Hi Mac Gyver467,

Congratulations with your MFX upgrade.

I used a Weller 12W mini soldering iron for my conversion.
A temperature controlled soldering station is high on my wishlist though.

Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:There is one running characteristic that is slightly annoying, though. The front non-powered wheels will stop moving if the loc traverses a switch. Any ideas on how to fix that? The only thing I could think of was buying traction tires and redneck-engineering them onto a pair of wheels without grooves.

I assume you have checked the front drive is absolutely clean and all the rods are properly aligned?

Kind regards
Guus
Kind regards,
Guus
Offline Maxi  
#21 Posted : 23 December 2005 15:27:43(UTC)
Maxi


Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Wawa, Ontario
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MacGyver467

Oh, how do I love Tool Time ... biggrinbiggrinbiggrin


I was wondering how long it would take before someone would make the connection.
Offline MacGyver467  
#22 Posted : 23 December 2005 20:34:55(UTC)
MacGyver467


Joined: 03/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by foumaro
<br />I have the grey 3301 and i want to convert it to digital.If you took
any photos of your trial please send them.biggrinbiggrinbiggrin


I didn't, but you can email me at macg467[at]comcast.net and I'll tell you what I did.

And I checked all the rods and wheels and they are definitely free wheeling perfect. No problems at all. like I said, I did oil them though.

-MacG467
Offline john black  
#23 Posted : 23 December 2005 22:35:58(UTC)
john black

United States   
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC)
Posts: 12,139
Location: New York, NY
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Maxi
<br />I was wondering how long it would take before someone would make the connection

Tim is big fun. Especially when trying to convince wife never to buy old Austin Healeys ... biggrin
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide

Offline steventrain  
#24 Posted : 08 January 2006 21:43:46(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,601
Location: United Kingdom
Welcome to the forum MacGyver467.

Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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