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Offline Timnomads  
#1 Posted : 17 March 2016 13:04:28(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Hi All

Crocodile 3352.jpg

A friend of mine has given me a Marklin 3352 brown crocodile BigGrin
but it is analogue and so will not run on my Digital layout with my CS2 Crying

What pieces do I need to convert it to digital and does any body have a video/instruction that are idiot proof as this
will be my first soldering job.

Thanks

Tim
Offline kiwiAlan  
#2 Posted : 17 March 2016 13:19:13(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Wow, lucky fella getting one of those as a gift.

What motor does it have? Is it the large motor like the original CCS800/3015 or is it a later smaller motor?

To make it an mfx beast the new msd3 series decoders would be a good start. If it is a later small motor then an appropriate motor kit with 5 pole anker and permanent magnet, and an msd3 kit (with electric sounds if you want sounds) should make the job pretty straight forward. Otherwise a corresponding esu loksound decoder would be an alternative, again you will need a motor kit.

Offline ktsolias  
#3 Posted : 18 May 2016 14:47:35(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Cong you have one of the best Marklin locos.
The Pieces that you need are
60941 motor
and an mfx decoder
Märklin 60942 or 60972 without sound
Marklin 60947 or 60977 with sound
ESU Loc 4 decoder

Enjoy the conversion

Edited by user 19 May 2016 08:30:51(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline river6109  
#4 Posted : 18 May 2016 15:20:17(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,635
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Tim, I will show you my conversion in a couple of days.

you can also add 2 ball bearings (2mmx1.5mmx2mm), there is just enough room for an ESU decoder and loudspeaker to fit into the non motor section. you also can change the couplings (E671860) these are coupling shafts which will fit into the front or rear bogy assembly and doing this you than can add any coupling. you could try telex coupling as a bonus.

regads.,

John


https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline RayF  
#5 Posted : 18 May 2016 15:37:36(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
The 3352 has the standard DCM motor, so you can get away with using the cheap 60760 motor/decoder kit which only costs about 25 euro. It will not be mfx, but will run perfectly well on any digital layout.

For any 33xx loco you will also need to swap the bulbs to the 18/20 V versions, as the installed ones are rated at about 3V and will blow the moment you place the new decoder in it and put the power on!
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline Carlos  
#6 Posted : 19 May 2016 03:40:38(UTC)
Carlos

United States   
Joined: 15/11/2014(UTC)
Posts: 126
Location: Freeport, New York
Originally Posted by: ktsolias Go to Quoted Post
Cong you have one of the best Marklin locos.
The Pieces that you need are
60941 motor
and an mfx decoder
Märklin 60942 or 60972 without sound
Marklin 60947 or 60974 with sound
ESU Loc 4 decoder

Enjoy the conversion


Hi Solias, I have the marklin 3356, can I use the same motor and decoder that
You recommended for the 3352.?

Thank you,

Carlos
Offline H0  
#7 Posted : 19 May 2016 07:58:43(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
When converting Swiss crocodiles with the 60941 you may have to grind of a corner of the field magnet to make it negotiate tight curves.
Märklin installed a special field magnet at the factory, but it was discontinued.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by H0
Offline ktsolias  
#8 Posted : 19 May 2016 08:46:46(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: Carlos Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: ktsolias Go to Quoted Post
Cong you have one of the best Marklin locos.
The Pieces that you need are
60941 motor
and an mfx decoder
Märklin 60942 or 60972 without sound
Marklin 60947 or 60974 with sound
ESU Loc 4 decoder

Enjoy the conversion


Hi Solias, I have the marklin 3356, can I use the same motor and decoder that
You recommended for the 3352.?

Thank you,

Carlos


Hi Carlos

Fisrt sorry but the 60974 is incorrect the correct is 60977.
The 3352 and 3356 are actually the same, with the same DCM motor. The differencies are that the 3356 has not the Swiss light changeover (thats make the conversion easier for beginners) and the body color.

Of course you can do the conversion with 60760 kit. (60941 motor and basic fx decoder with only 28 speed steps and only f0 and f4 direct assesible).
But I believe that a Loco of this Class and Quality (In 1986 these two locos were the most expensive in the Märklin Catalog), must have a better mfx decoder (128 speed steps 16 functions....). like 60942 or 60972 (256 Speed steps 32 functions).
If you decide to spend rhe extra money to go for sound defintlly the the 60977 is the best choise.
So see your bugdet and go on.
Have a nice time with the conversion
Be carefull with the Lights (Bulbs - sockets etc.)
Thanks
Costas
Offline dickinsonj  
#9 Posted : 19 May 2016 15:01:58(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,676
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

For any 33xx loco you will also need to swap the bulbs to the 18/20 V versions, as the installed ones are rated at about 3V and will blow the moment you place the new decoder in it and put the power on!

I was planning on installing a 60760 kit in a 3356 croc and it sounds like I need to swap bulbs when I do that. I installed the 60760 kit in 3657 and it works well with the exception of flickering lights. I assumed that I might need to change to different bulbs but I was not sure which ones.

Can you provide some part numbers for the bulb options available/appropriate for converted analog loks?

Thanks,

Jim
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
Offline RayF  
#10 Posted : 19 May 2016 15:18:18(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

For any 33xx loco you will also need to swap the bulbs to the 18/20 V versions, as the installed ones are rated at about 3V and will blow the moment you place the new decoder in it and put the power on!

I was planning on installing a 60760 kit in a 3356 croc and it sounds like I need to swap bulbs when I do that. I installed the 60760 kit in 3657 and it works well with the exception of flickering lights. I assumed that I might need to change to different bulbs but I was not sure which ones.

Can you provide some part numbers for the bulb options available/appropriate for converted analog loks?

Thanks,

Jim


E610080 Lamp bi pin 0.7 VA @ 19 V Digital

I recommend checking out this "sticky" topic in the digital section. Lots of answers there to many questions about digital conversions.

https://www.marklin-user...al-conversion-of-M-locos
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline dickinsonj  
#11 Posted : 19 May 2016 16:24:16(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,676
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

E610080 Lamp bi pin 0.7 VA @ 19 V Digital

I recommend checking out this "sticky" topic in the digital section. Lots of answers there to many questions about digital conversions.

https://www.marklin-user...al-conversion-of-M-locos

Thanks so much.

You are right - I need to mine the info that is already available here in the forum before posting questions like this.

I guess I was just being lazy. Blushing

Jim
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
Offline RayF  
#12 Posted : 19 May 2016 16:54:25(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

E610080 Lamp bi pin 0.7 VA @ 19 V Digital

I recommend checking out this "sticky" topic in the digital section. Lots of answers there to many questions about digital conversions.

https://www.marklin-user...al-conversion-of-M-locos

Thanks so much.

You are right - I need to mine the info that is already available here in the forum before posting questions like this.

I guess I was just being lazy. Blushing

Jim


No problem!

I don't mind answering questions...
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
Offline H0  
#13 Posted : 19 May 2016 17:06:53(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
E610080 Lamp bi pin 0.7 VA @ 19 V Digital
The specs probably are not correct.
From dealer web site:
E610080 Märklin Ersatzlampe Allglas T1 3,2mm 22V 24mA
E600080 Märklin Ersatzlampe Allglas T1 19V 50mA
http://www.lokmuseum.de/...artikel.php?SArt=1004529
http://www.lokmuseum.de/...artikel.php?SArt=1004523

"Analogue" Märklin H0 light bulbs are 19 V, "digital" light bulbs are 22 V.
E610080 is what you need for flicker-free light between decoder plus and decoder function output.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by H0
Offline dickinsonj  
#14 Posted : 19 May 2016 20:41:04(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,676
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post

E610080 is what you need for flicker-free light between decoder plus and decoder function output.

My 3657 lights were connected to the common chassis ground, so I left it that way - which seemed to align with the included directions from Marklin, such as they were.

Now it sounds like in addition to changing the bulbs I should connect the returns from the lights to the lead for that on the decoder. What I really would like to do is to use LED's instead of incandescents but that is another upgrade subject that I have yet to master.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
Offline RayF  
#15 Posted : 19 May 2016 22:54:39(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post

E610080 is what you need for flicker-free light between decoder plus and decoder function output.

My 3657 lights were connected to the common chassis ground, so I left it that way - which seemed to align with the included directions from Marklin, such as they were.

Now it sounds like in addition to changing the bulbs I should connect the returns from the lights to the lead for that on the decoder. What I really would like to do is to use LED's instead of incandescents but that is another upgrade subject that I have yet to master.


On locos that have a chassis ground for the lights I generally leave them like that and put up with a bit of flicker. It doesn't bother me that much. I don't need the extra work involved in changing the light socket to a bi-pin one.

If you want LEDs to replace the light bulbs there are some manufacturers who make LED packages with screw or bayonet that are a direct replacement for the incandescent bulbs. Unfortunately I can't remember right now who makes them...
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline dickinsonj  
#16 Posted : 20 May 2016 00:39:37(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,676
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

On locos that have a chassis ground for the lights I generally leave them like that and put up with a bit of flicker. It doesn't bother me that much. I don't need the extra work involved in changing the light socket to a bi-pin one.

The flickering isn't too noticeable when the engine is assembled - it looked terrible when I ran it with the body off to test it. That model already has the bi-pin type bulbs, so changing the ground would not be very hard.
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

If you want LEDs to replace the light bulbs there are some manufacturers who make LED packages with screw or bayonet that are a direct replacement for the incandescent bulbs. Unfortunately I can't remember right now who makes them...

Forum member sgtb recommended a place to buy the LED replacements - when I find that place I will post it. What I didn't know was whether I would need to add resistors to those LED's to get the brightness under control or not with a new decoder.

Update: Here is the place that Bob recommended for LEDs:
http://stores.ebay.com/g..._i.html?_fsub=2236459013
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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