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Offline NewMB  
#1 Posted : 08 January 2016 21:31:20(UTC)
NewMB

Germany   
Joined: 26/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 668
Location: Erftstadt
As per titel, I have a small problem with a very old set that I own. A 2670 which is the Swedish wooden D-101 lok (with 3 wooden wagons).

When placing the lok on the tracks, CS2 finds it and the lights work. But the lok will not move in any direction. Just have a hmmmmm'ing and brummmm'ing.

Any idea's of what can be faulty?

Thanks.

Patrik
Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#2 Posted : 08 January 2016 21:43:32(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,863
Location: CA, USA
I'm 95% sure your engine lubricant has turned to glue- a common problem.

You (or a service center) need to pull the whole motor apart and clean all components with contact cleaner like RC car motor spray (watch out for the paint!!!!), and then reassemble with new oil and it should be fine. I've had to do this to a good 15+ loco from that era. A hassle, but the good news is its nothing bad and no new parts are needed
SBB Era 2-5
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Offline NewMB  
#3 Posted : 08 January 2016 22:09:08(UTC)
NewMB

Germany   
Joined: 26/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 668
Location: Erftstadt
Originally Posted by: 5HorizonsRR Go to Quoted Post
I'm 95% sure your engine lubricant has turned to glue- a common problem.

You (or a service center) need to pull the whole motor apart and clean all components with contact cleaner like RC car motor spray (watch out for the paint!!!!), and then reassemble with new oil and it should be fine. I've had to do this to a good 15+ loco from that era. A hassle, but the good news is its nothing bad and no new parts are needed




Thank You. Kind of what I though ie glued up inside.... no problem, local shop does service so they can have a go Smile
Offline Webmaster  
#4 Posted : 08 January 2016 22:19:43(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
As mentioned, it's most likely the glued oil syndrome... In worst case, the decoder motor drivers are already blown...

On my 3670 (which took a trip to Australia) the whole gear train and all axles were firmly glued so I burnt the 6080 decoder
in it by trying to drive it on the roller stand... It's all about the synthetic oil used by Märklin in the late 80's/and 90's which
dried up and became a firm glue on unused models/shelf queens...

So I had to do a 60903 decoder conversion on it and it took a lot of WD-40 and precision axle knocking to make the mechanical
parts move at all, but the end result was a smoothly running D 101 which was sent to a forum member in Aussieland.
It took about a week of periodical work and a lot of patience but it was worth it.

So now I'm an expert on recovering stale oil D loks... BigGrin BigGrin BigGrin
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Offline Markus Schild  
#5 Posted : 08 January 2016 23:00:39(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi,

it is a frequent asked question how to open the loco:
UserPostedImage
The painting of the roof is easy damageable. I suggest to use a tool which is sold to repair mobile phones. Look for the blue, triangle shaped tool: http://cgi.ebay.de/231302612102 Link for illustration only.

Regards

Markus
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Markus Schild
Offline skeeterbuck  
#6 Posted : 09 January 2016 20:25:36(UTC)
skeeterbuck

United States   
Joined: 15/12/2015(UTC)
Posts: 523
Location: Maryland, Baltimore
Markus,

That blue triangular item looks like a guitar pick. ThumpUp

Chuck
Offline Mark_1602  
#7 Posted : 10 January 2016 15:15:56(UTC)
Mark_1602

Luxembourg   
Joined: 24/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: Luxembourg
Hi,

I actually cleaned and serviced the locomotive of my 2670 set this morning, before I noticed this thread. Isoprypyl alcohol (90°) is very good at dissolving the sticky glue that the Märklin oil of the late 80s and early 90s often turned into when the locomotive was never used. I got a small bottle from the local pharmacy, just dipped a cotton earbud into it, and cleaned the motor shield inside, the rotor, the whole gearbox as well as the wheels. The sticky oil just vanishes, and then you use dry cotton buds to finish cleaning. Finally, I oiled the bearings of every axle, and now this wooden locomotive runs very smoothly. I just had to replace the coal and brush inside the motor, as they were dirty.

It's pretty easy to disassemble and reassemble the motor in this case, so cleaning a Swedish D/Da it is not too much of a hassle. The small plastic part that covers the screw on the roof can be loosened by turning it with your fingernails or using a toothpick; a screwdriver might easily scratch the roof.

Best regards,

Mark
Best regards, Mark

I like Märklin items produced in the 1960s or early '70s, but also digital locos & current rolling stock.
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Offline biedmatt  
#8 Posted : 10 January 2016 15:33:28(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Be careful with 90% alcohol. It will remove paint quickly and could damage the finish on a loko. I use it to strip paint from factory painted slot cars. It desolves the paint quickly but does not damage plastic. Some will be stripped completely in only two hours. Paint thinner is much safer. 90% is great to clean surfaces in preparation for glue. It leaves nothing once it evaporates.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline H0  
#9 Posted : 10 January 2016 16:49:19(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Be careful with 90% alcohol.
Mark recommended Isopropanol. You are probably talking about Ethanol.
In my experience Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol) is not dangerous for paint.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline biedmatt  
#10 Posted : 10 January 2016 17:35:17(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Be careful with 90% alcohol.
Mark recommended Isopropanol. You are probably talking about Ethanol.
In my experience Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol) is not dangerous for paint.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol


I meam isopropyl. I have the wife buy it at the grocery store when I need it. 90% burns through paint in no time. It has stripped the paint from every slot body I have tried but one, a Monogram model from the early 60's. As a degreaser to clean surfaces before I glue in SB-Modellbau motors, it quickly turns the cotton swap to the color of the finish and will begin to expose bare metal.

UserPostedImage

Learned it here at SCI:
https://www.google.com/?...+illustrated+strip+paint
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline Mark_1602  
#11 Posted : 10 January 2016 18:04:13(UTC)
Mark_1602

Luxembourg   
Joined: 24/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: Luxembourg
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Be careful with 90% alcohol. It will remove paint quickly and could damage the finish on a loko. I use it to strip paint from factory painted slot cars. It desolves the paint quickly but does not damage plastic. Some will be stripped completely in only two hours. Paint thinner is much safer. 90% is great to clean surfaces in preparation for glue. It leaves nothing once it evaporates.


Thanks, Matt. I keep it away from the livery or any other paint, of course. When I tried it, it seemed to me that it's a very powerful solvent, so I only used it on the cogwheels and inside the motor. If the wheel flanges or the pickup shoe are really dirty, I use it there too. In case there's absolutely no sticky oil at all anywhere, I simply clean the locomotive with dry cotton buds. That's what I did with the old vintage models that I posted here in the last few weeks.

I got this tip from a very experienced member on a German forum who told me that this sticky Märklin oil from the 80s is easier to remove with alcohol than with petrol because that hardened oil has been oxidized. He said that if only part of it is removed, the remainder may cause fresh oil to be oxidized as well, so the problem will be back. The isopropyl alcohol dissolves it all within seconds, but I agree that it needs to be used very carefully.

Best regards,
Mark
Best regards, Mark

I like Märklin items produced in the 1960s or early '70s, but also digital locos & current rolling stock.
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Offline biedmatt  
#12 Posted : 10 January 2016 18:36:37(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
It is a great cleaner, that is why it is on my bench. I just wanted folks to know it will damage paint and you need to be careful. I did not want anyone lulled into a false sense of security that because it is safe on your body, it wouldn't damage paint. It most certainly will.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline Janne75  
#13 Posted : 11 January 2016 08:42:51(UTC)
Janne75

Finland   
Joined: 23/03/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2,550
Location: Finland
I have used only very lightweight oil to fix my secondhand bought locos jammed gears after I have dismantled the motors. This way there is no risk to the paint. When this lightweight oil has been applied I carefully start to rotate the wheels/gears after a while and take some cotton buds to remove that old Märklin grease from the gears. I have done this kind of fix to at least 30 locos.
Märklin H0 digital layout. I have analog and digital H0 Collection. Rolling stock mostly from era I, II, III and IV. Märklin 1 gauge beginner.
Offline NewMB  
#14 Posted : 11 August 2016 22:41:45(UTC)
NewMB

Germany   
Joined: 26/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 668
Location: Erftstadt
Old thread, but problem solved ThumpUp

Went to local shop and was recommended to just simply add some fresh oil, wait 1 hour and then try to turn the wheels. It worked. Add a drop or two more. Wait 24 hours (in the end waited about 3 days!) and it was running freely.

Now, the lok works more or less perfect, sjre its very old, but it runs without really any hesitation.

Thanks to all on here for your help and assistance!
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by NewMB
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