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Offline tulit  
#1 Posted : 02 January 2013 20:00:43(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Hi all.

I seem to have discovered an odd problem with two 60215 CS2 causing a large voltage gradient (likely due to the isolation) and was wondering if anyone else had seen a similar problem?

My setups are as follows:

110V supply -> 110-220V step up transformer -> 100VA switching supply (marklins) -> 60215 CS2

The problem is that if you measure the potential between the center stud of the rail and the houses ground (or neutral), I'm seeing potentials anywhere in the range of 100-180VAC rms. If you're grounded, and you touch the center studs you feel a mild electric shock.

This happens at two completely different locations, with two completely different setups (i.e. a different step up transformer, 100VA supply and different 60215) so I don't think it's equipment/house wiring specific and rather the design, or the fact that I have a separate (isolating) step up transformer in the setup.

I did the same sort of test with a MS2 (also going through a step up transformer and it's own 18VA supply) and the potential there is only about 40V.
Offline mike c  
#2 Posted : 02 January 2013 20:06:04(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,898
Location: Montreal, QC
If you are in Canada, you may be better off using an authorized transformer for 110-120VAC from Maerklin. It is possible that your step up transformer will cause problems with your CS2 and with newer digital loks. The voltage in many areas in North America has changed slightly, as has the norm in Europe, which can result in an older step up transformer yielding voltage in excess of the designed amount.

Regards

Mike C
Offline tulit  
#3 Posted : 02 January 2013 20:19:33(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
If you are in Canada, you may be better off using an authorized transformer for 110-120VAC from Maerklin. It is possible that your step up transformer will cause problems with your CS2 and with newer digital loks. The voltage in many areas in North America has changed slightly, as has the norm in Europe, which can result in an older step up transformer yielding voltage in excess of the designed amount.

Regards

Mike C


It's a 1:2 winding, so even at 120V supply we're still at 240V (my house voltage rings in closer to about 114VACrms). The output on the SMPS stage is also a rock solid 19VDC so the supply voltage really has nothing to do with this problem. Unfortunately there is no official 100VA 110(or 120V) supply available. The only thing I can think of is that the additional isolation stage in the step up transformer is allowing the output isolation of the 60215 to float high above. But any impedance path to ground should really cause it to pull back to zero thus eliminating the problem.
Offline RayF  
#4 Posted : 02 January 2013 20:54:35(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Tulit,

The trouble with using step up transformers is that you end up with an additional isolation stage, allowing your AC input to your equipment to be floating relative to your mains ground. This means that your stepped up neutral can be +/- 120V relative to your mains neutral, depending on the wiring and the phase relationships between primary and secondary windings.

One thing that soemtimes works is to reverse the polarity of the input windings to the step-up transformer. Failing this I would opt to revert to the older 60VA transformer from Marklin which is correct for USA 120V AC mains.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline Western Pacific  
#5 Posted : 02 January 2013 22:47:34(UTC)
Western Pacific

Sweden   
Joined: 19/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 841
Location: Lidingö, Sweden
Hi Tulit,

I would also suggest you get a proper power supply for North American voltages.

As Ray points out depending on what the transformer looks like inside you may end up with various voltages between your house neutral and the output neutral of the transformer.

One could separate two cases:

1) Full transformer

This is a simplified drawing of a full transformer:



In this case there is a full isolation between primary and secondary sides and it doesn't matter which of the connection points to the left is connected to the house neutral and to the house phase wire. No need to use a polarized plug to connect this type of a transformer.

2) Transformer without galvanic isolation;



In this case there is electric connection between one of the poles of the primary side to one of the poles on the secondary side. For use in the US this type of transformer should (must?) have a polarized plug in order to connect the lower point in the drawing to house neutral and the upper to house phase.

It could be that you have a step up transformer of this type.



Finally, even if it is a bit off topic. My wife is from California. When we married (in 1985) she brought a few electrical items to Sweden. Most of them were replaced by 230 V versions and taken back to the US, but she had a calculator that she loved and on a business trip to the US I bought a 230 V to 115 V travel converter at Radio Shack. (A piece of crap, but a good starting point for doing my own design and at a lower cost than all transformers I had seen in Sweden).



I noticed early that it didn't have galvanic isolation between primary and secondary sides and given that outlets and plugs are not polarized in Sweden. I designed a new box for the transformer with a test button with a red lamp. If lit, then the plug needed to be turned 180 degrees in the outlet in order to operate in a safe manner. The Radio Shack designer of that transformer had evidently taken for granted that the left hole of an outlet is neutral and you can never count on that in Sweden (and in many European countries) and furthermore in theory the pin which was meant to be the left one could also go in the right hole by turning the converter 180 degrees - in short a poor design from electrical safety point of view. But it was a very cheap transformer and it still works even if we don't have the calculator any more.

PS I have an M.Sc.E.E.
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Offline tulit  
#6 Posted : 03 January 2013 00:14:32(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Thanks guys. So it sounds sort of like what I was suspecting.
It seems I may be okay with a non isolated transformer then.

Alternatively though, what is the correct # for the 120V transformers? They list only two currently, a 60VA (with only 16VAC output) and a 50VA (with proper 19VDC output). Is the 50VA the only workable "proper" solution then? Or was there a older 60VA that also used to be setup for 120V?
Offline tulit  
#7 Posted : 03 January 2013 03:02:07(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
I think I've found a solution. There seems to be some dependance on the direction the 100VA supply is plugged into the step-up transformer. One way, we get a potential of 180V between rail and ground. The other way, I see a nice 19V as expected.

I verified the other end of the transformer is correctly connected to neutral as well. Measuring resistance across the coil and coil to coil as well confirmed is configuration too.
Offline mike c  
#8 Posted : 03 January 2013 03:18:57(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,898
Location: Montreal, QC
You can go with 60055 (60VA), the earlier 6001 (52VA) both with 16VAC output or you can use the auxiliary outputs from a 6646 (32VA).

You may be able to find a 6001 or 6646 at a discount as some of these are being sold "as is" from broken up start sets by dealers and online.

Regards

Mike C
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Offline Goofy  
#9 Posted : 03 January 2013 09:35:33(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,019
Attention!!!
Warrenty disappear if you are not use correct trafo for digital system and for household.
In Canada you must use 120VAC 60Hz for yours CS2.
While at 240VAC is occur for fixed installed equipment.
Only use one trafo for one digital system and another for booster...but they must been at 120VAC system for Canada household!
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline Goofy  
#10 Posted : 03 January 2013 09:50:15(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,019
Originally Posted by: Goofy Go to Quoted Post
Attention!!!
Warrenty disappear if you are not use correct trafo for digital system and for household.
In Canada you must use 120VAC 60Hz for yours CS2.
While at 240VAC is occur for fixed installed equipment.
Only use one trafo for one digital system and another for booster...but they must been at 120VAC system for Canada household!


If not less you have rectifiers instead at 120VAC 60Hz to 19 volt DC.

H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline efel  
#11 Posted : 03 January 2013 10:04:54(UTC)
efel

France   
Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC)
Posts: 800
Hi Tulit,

I think we all can measure a voltage between our tracks and the neutral of the mains, irrespective of the power unit: transformer or SMPS. The measured voltage value depends on the insulation resistance of the transfo/SMPS and of the voltmeter resistance (and of the mains value).
But the available current is quite low: some tens of uA, hence there is no safety problem if your fingers get in contact with both the track and the mains neutral or earth, whatever the direction the transfo/SMPS is plugged into the mains.
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Offline Goofy  
#12 Posted : 03 January 2013 11:00:32(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,019
Originally Posted by: tulit Go to Quoted Post
Hi all.

I seem to have discovered an odd problem with two 60215 CS2 causing a large voltage gradient (likely due to the isolation) and was wondering if anyone else had seen a similar problem?

My setups are as follows:

110V supply -> 110-220V step up transformer -> 100VA switching supply (marklins) -> 60215 CS2

The problem is that if you measure the potential between the center stud of the rail and the houses ground (or neutral), I'm seeing potentials anywhere in the range of 100-180VAC rms. If you're grounded, and you touch the center studs you feel a mild electric shock.

This happens at two completely different locations, with two completely different setups (i.e. a different step up transformer, 100VA supply and different 60215) so I don't think it's equipment/house wiring specific and rather the design, or the fact that I have a separate (isolating) step up transformer in the setup.

I did the same sort of test with a MS2 (also going through a step up transformer and it's own 18VA supply) and the potential there is only about 40V.


First...never ever use step up transformer for yours digital system!
Only use orginal trafo or rectifiers from Marklin at 120VAC 60Hz for Canadas household!!!
If not you will or else loss warrenty for yours CS2!
Same about MS2!
I use orginal rectifiers from Marklin for my MS2.
The power is at 16-18 volt at the tracks which is standard at DCC or MM.
I don´t understand why you must step up with transformer...
Besides yours 100VA supply is too much for scale HO...it´s more fitted for big scale instead.
As Marklin suggest.

H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline H0  
#13 Posted : 03 January 2013 11:18:48(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,267
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
You can go with 60055 (60VA), the earlier 6001 (52VA) both with 16VAC output or you can use the auxiliary outputs from a 6646 (32VA).
AFAIK you can select one out of three power sources in the CS2: 60 VA transformer (16 V AC), 60 VA power supply (19 V DC), or 100 VA power supply (19 V DC).
Makes a difference with respect to switching off in overload situations.

So using a 32 VA transformer and running three trains could lead to the transformer switching off (overload) - the CS2 will show a black screen (without proper shutdown).
While a 6646 may do for a Xmas tree layout with a single running train, it won't do for a large layout.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline tulit  
#14 Posted : 03 January 2013 14:03:00(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Originally Posted by: Goofy Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: tulit Go to Quoted Post
Hi all.

I seem to have discovered an odd problem with two 60215 CS2 causing a large voltage gradient (likely due to the isolation) and was wondering if anyone else had seen a similar problem?

My setups are as follows:

110V supply -> 110-220V step up transformer -> 100VA switching supply (marklins) -> 60215 CS2

The problem is that if you measure the potential between the center stud of the rail and the houses ground (or neutral), I'm seeing potentials anywhere in the range of 100-180VAC rms. If you're grounded, and you touch the center studs you feel a mild electric shock.

This happens at two completely different locations, with two completely different setups (i.e. a different step up transformer, 100VA supply and different 60215) so I don't think it's equipment/house wiring specific and rather the design, or the fact that I have a separate (isolating) step up transformer in the setup.

I did the same sort of test with a MS2 (also going through a step up transformer and it's own 18VA supply) and the potential there is only about 40V.


First...never ever use step up transformer for yours digital system!
Only use orginal trafo or rectifiers from Marklin at 120VAC 60Hz for Canadas household!!!
If not you will or else loss warrenty for yours CS2!
Same about MS2!
I use orginal rectifiers from Marklin for my MS2.
The power is at 16-18 volt at the tracks which is standard at DCC or MM.
I don´t understand why you must step up with transformer...
Besides yours 100VA supply is too much for scale HO...it´s more fitted for big scale instead.
As Marklin suggest.



Where does it say this? I'm not sure I understand the issue. The 100VA SMPS is rated for 220-240V 50-60Hz. Its output is fully regulated and can withstand some margin in the line voltage (even your household supply will vary). Note : This setup is what is recommended by my authorized Marklin dealer here.

100VA isn`t recommended for HO, but with sufficient sized and number of feeder wires, it works fine. It eliminates the need, for me, for a booster.
Offline tulit  
#15 Posted : 03 January 2013 14:04:34(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Originally Posted by: efel Go to Quoted Post
Hi Tulit,

I think we all can measure a voltage between our tracks and the neutral of the mains, irrespective of the power unit: transformer or SMPS. The measured voltage value depends on the insulation resistance of the transfo/SMPS and of the voltmeter resistance (and of the mains value).
But the available current is quite low: some tens of uA, hence there is no safety problem if your fingers get in contact with both the track and the mains neutral or earth, whatever the direction the transfo/SMPS is plugged into the mains.


Hi. This was my assumption too but it`s definitely noticeable depending on how well your body is grounded. With the plug reversed, the issue has gone away.
Offline H0  
#16 Posted : 03 January 2013 14:30:23(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,267
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: tulit Go to Quoted Post
The 100VA SMPS is rated for 220-240V 50-60Hz.
The picture in the manual reads "230 V" only. Are you sure the label reads "220 - 240 V"? Just curious, shouldn't make a practical difference.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline tulit  
#17 Posted : 03 January 2013 15:49:03(UTC)
tulit

Canada   
Joined: 20/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 400
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: tulit Go to Quoted Post
The 100VA SMPS is rated for 220-240V 50-60Hz.
The picture in the manual reads "230 V" only. Are you sure the label reads "220 - 240 V"? Just curious, shouldn't make a practical difference.



Hi . Yup it definitely says 220-240V. I`ll try and take a picture of the sticker tonight. But I agree, for all intensive purpose it should be fine. Most residential services are +/-5% anyways.
Offline Goofy  
#18 Posted : 03 January 2013 16:52:20(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,019
Marklin has a new rectifiers for Canada and USA current household(120VAC 60Hz).
It´s number item 60055.
This rectifiers has only power feed at 50VA.
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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