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Offline shamrock  
#1 Posted : 24 May 2014 16:53:03(UTC)
shamrock

United States   
Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 206




I am thinking of retrofitting my BR81 from the #29852 digital starter set with Telex couplers for shunting. Is it possilbe and will it then function correctly with an MS2.

I do not know how to find the individual locomotive number from a starter set but this is the green MHI BR01 from 2005/2006.

Thank you,

Tim
CS2/C-Track digital turnouts/Collection back to 1948/Current favorites on track: KPEV T16.1 37166, BR 53 37024, Ae 6/6 11453, Krok 39560
Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 24 May 2014 19:22:16(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi, Tim,

All locos with NEM coupler pockets can be equipped with new style Telex couplers. Your "BR 081" will also need a new decoder.

New style Telex couplers probably won't work well with the metal couplers of your tin-plate coaches.

Maybe it works better to get an old-style BR 81 with old-style Telex couplers and convert that to digital. Will work better with your metal Relex couplers.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline Shamu  
#3 Posted : 25 May 2014 04:46:47(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
How do Tim,

I agree with Tom.

I'd look for a 3031/32 (can never remember which one was Telex) you should be able to pick a good one up for well under the 100 mark.

I've also got 2 of the newer BR 81's like yours (well from 2010'ish 29539) and you could put E117993 NEM Telex couplings on it but depending on the decoder in it (wether its the one with the "hidden" extra function, mine do) that's something else you would have to change. And as Tom said they more than likely be problematic with the older Relex couplers.

I plan on converting my 3031 and 3032 to digital for shunting. I've looked for the Telex units for the one that doesn't have it but the cheapest I've come across was $65 EA. So for a $130 I could more than likely get 2 BR 81's with Telex and spend $80 on 2 x 5 pole decoder kits.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline shamrock  
#4 Posted : 28 May 2014 16:32:28(UTC)
shamrock

United States   
Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 206
Thank you for the great replies!

New questions then:

1. Is it easier to use the old telex and relex or the new telex and close couplers together?

2. Is it easier to use a decoupler on relex attached wagons or wagons attached with close couplers? Confused

Cheers,

Tim

Edited by user 28 May 2014 21:29:06(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

CS2/C-Track digital turnouts/Collection back to 1948/Current favorites on track: KPEV T16.1 37166, BR 53 37024, Ae 6/6 11453, Krok 39560
Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#5 Posted : 28 May 2014 19:18:31(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,863
Location: CA, USA
Hi Tom,

You have answered a big question I've had lately- that the new telex couplers can be fitted to existing NEM locomotives!

Have you added them to a loco yet? I understand the decoder needs, but electrically is it just solder a "hot" lead from the decoder and you are set to go? Advice is appreciated as I have a few I'd love to convert! (pending a realistic cost on the uncoupler units themselves)

Cheers,
-John

SBB Era 2-5
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Offline biedmatt  
#6 Posted : 28 May 2014 19:59:10(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Hi John,
New style telex couplers will plug into any NEM coupler pocket that will accept the current pluggable close coupler. You will need to land an aux output and aux/lamp ground to the telex. Be sure to configure the decoder to power the telex for only a few seconds. Continuous power apparently will burn the coil. ESU's coupler dance would be perfect here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/...=201096642876&_rdc=1
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#7 Posted : 28 May 2014 22:19:03(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,863
Location: CA, USA
Thanks matt! They aren't as pricey as I thought either. Have you tried a set? If so, where did you ground them to?
SBB Era 2-5
Offline biedmatt  
#8 Posted : 28 May 2014 22:25:46(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I actually replace the close couplers on my freight cars with the 72060 relex couplers. The new telex doesn't work well with them. I do have five lokos with the old telex couplers. For ground, you could use the loko frame, but since that is half wave, the coil would have less power to operate. I would wire to to the blue wire if an ESU decoder. I think orange is the equivalent for M decoders.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline H0  
#9 Posted : 28 May 2014 22:38:09(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: 5HorizonsRR Go to Quoted Post
If so, where did you ground them to?
Ground is the orange wire with Märklin decoder colours or the blue wire with NMRA decoder colours.

I didn't make any Telex conversions yet, so I cannot speak about own practical experience.

I have locos from Märklin and Roco with factory-installed digital couplers - the Roco digital couplers and Roco Universal couplers work better than their Märklin counterparts IMHO.
If I wanted to make a conversion, I'd try to get Roco digital couplers.

See also:
https://www.marklin-user...-coupler.aspx#post384273
https://www.marklin-user...-coupler.aspx#post388036 (This thread about Roco digital couplers explains how to improve Märklin digital couplers)
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline BrandonVA  
#10 Posted : 30 May 2014 18:25:50(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
.
I'd look for a 3031/32 (can never remember which one was Telex) you should be able to pick a good one up for well under the 100 mark.


Hi,

3031 was the telex version. BR81 was also available with Telex as 30321 later in life.

I am not debating relex vs. close, here are my observations:

Old Telex - works with relex and close.
New Telex - only works with close.
Relex - easier for playing by hand (easier to couple/uncouple)
Close - More realistic looking consists

I know some people covert as much as they can one way or the other, for the most part I leave rolling stock with the factory equipped coupler (unless non Marklin), and just live with the mix and match. I sort of have a set of relex cars that go together for the kids to play with, and then a set of more realistic close based cars to run when I feel like doing that instead.

To self promote, here is a good reference on various telex models created over the years:

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...th-Telex.aspx#post324575

-Brandon
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Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#11 Posted : 30 May 2014 18:59:11(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,863
Location: CA, USA
Thanks all! Once time and money come around, I'll have to give both the marklin and Roco examples a shot
SBB Era 2-5
Offline DumbGuy  
#12 Posted : 04 May 2015 22:34:35(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
I have a 37132 BR 75 that has been modified with 177 993 Telex couplers front-and-rear. When running alone their release-tongues operate perfectly, moving up-and-down smoothly on command. However, the tongue won't move at all when connected to a car. The bases (coils?) of both couplers appear to be magnetized, holding the metal loop of an attached close-coupler too strongly for the tongue to raise. This occurs on both the front and the rear Telex couplers.

Since the tongues on both couplers operate well when the loco's uncoupled, I've assumed the wiring is correct. But . . . . . I've not tried to snip and reconnect the wires in another way, or to simply reverse them. Should I?

I'm considering buying another set of 117 993s for replacement. But before I do, I thought I'd search the Forum to see if there's an alternate fix, or if I've missed something simple & basic. I'd hate to buy replacements and have the same situation reoccur. In my search, I've not I've not seen a description of the specific symptoms I'm experiencing. Please tell me if I've overlooked any relevant posts.

Thanks for any suggestions -- Richard

FYI -- The loco couples well, with no unintended drops while running. It just won't uncouple remotely.

Additional Information -- After looking a bit further, I'm unsure whether the couplers are from Marklin or are Roco's equivalent 125 308 version. I'm also not sure whether that matters. If it helps, attached are two photos of the loco and its couplers.

Edited by user 06 May 2015 19:56:07(UTC)  | Reason: Additional info & photos

DumbGuy attached the following image(s):
# BR 75 Telex = 37132.JPG
# BR 75 Telex = 37132_2.JPG
Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
Offline carlos.rivas.16752  
#13 Posted : 05 May 2015 19:50:54(UTC)
carlos.rivas.16752

Spain   
Joined: 08/04/2015(UTC)
Posts: 303
Location: Vigo, Spain
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
.
I'd look for a 3031/32 (can never remember which one was Telex) you should be able to pick a good one up for well under the 100 mark.




Old Telex - works with relex and close.
New Telex - only works with close.
Relex - easier for playing by hand (easier to couple/uncouple)
Close - More realistic looking consists



-Brandon


Totally agree.

That´s why I run old locos with old cars and new locos with new cars.
My blog both in Spanish and English: https://grunewiesen1965.wordpress.com
Offline Shamu  
#14 Posted : 06 May 2015 01:14:17(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Hi Richard,

Is the Telex wired to the decoder common (blue ESU/orange Marklin) or the chassis frame ?

If to the frame that could be the problem...... not enough juice.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline DumbGuy  
#15 Posted : 06 May 2015 16:56:21(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
Hi Richard,

Is the Telex wired to the decoder common (blue ESU/orange Marklin) or the chassis frame ?

If to the frame that could be the problem...... not enough juice.


Shamu -- It's wired to the common & operates well when not coupled; e.g., the tongue moves up when powered, and stays down when unpowered. The problem is that the couplers are magnetized. In a simple test, both couplers will hold an extended metal paper clip firmly even when the loco is off-track and unpowered.

Thanks -- Richard
Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
Offline RayF  
#16 Posted : 06 May 2015 21:41:12(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
This happens with some conversions where the couplers are fed pure DC. The metal parts of the coupler get magnetised permanently.

You could try removing the couplers and feeding them with raw AC for a few seconds to de-magnetise them. This is called degaussing.

I recall there were problems with the Marklin Br86 starter set locos which would get their rear Telex couplers magnetised by the field from the motor magnet. They would then not release their wagons either.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline DumbGuy  
#17 Posted : 07 May 2015 13:49:34(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
This happens with some conversions . . . . . You could try removing the couplers and feeding them with raw AC for a few seconds to de-magnetise them. This is called degaussing.


Ray -- Thanks for the suggestion. I assume direct connection to track power would work for the few second "Raw AC" feed. Correct? I'll try it this weekend. Best -- Richard

Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
Offline RayF  
#18 Posted : 07 May 2015 18:39:13(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: DumbGuy Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
This happens with some conversions . . . . . You could try removing the couplers and feeding them with raw AC for a few seconds to de-magnetise them. This is called degaussing.


Ray -- Thanks for the suggestion. I assume direct connection to track power would work for the few second "Raw AC" feed. Correct? I'll try it this weekend. Best -- Richard



Ideally a connection to an analogue controller would be better, as a pure sine wave will degauss better than a square wave digital signal, but I guess it should work.

Don't keep it connected for too long as you might burn out the coil!
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline DumbGuy  
#19 Posted : 09 May 2015 13:58:10(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
This happens with some conversions . . . . . You could try removing the couplers and feeding them with raw AC for a few seconds to de-magnetise them. This is called degaussing.

Ideally a connection to an analogue controller would be better, as a pure sine wave will degauss better than a square wave digital signal.

Don't keep it connected for too long as you might burn out the coil!


Hi Ray,

My "degaussing" experience & for others who may be considering the same approach . . . . .

I removed and tried to degauss the loco’s rear Telex coupler yesterday using an old Marklin blue-box 30 VA analog transformer for the AC feed. Started with a 5 second connection, then increased the time in 5 second increments, testing for magnetization after each attempt. (The coupler opened when power was applied.) The coil sparked and burned out at the 50 second interval. It remains magnetized.

Since the coupler was essentially unusable before I started, it’s not a great loss. I’ve left the front Telex in place temporarily (it still functions when uncoupled, but is also magnetized). I’ll remove it later, and keep both to test any alternate methods I may be able to find. The loco’s rear has a non-Telex close coupler inserted, which will work fine for now.

Other than these units, I’ve not physically held retrofit Telex versions from either Marklin or Roco. But from vendor photos & some YouTube videos, the couplers the loco came with are definitely not Marklin’s. I’ve ordered a set of Marklin 117993 Telex couplers for replacement.

I appreciate your advice. From my modest understanding of electromagnetic theoryFlapper , it seemed a logical suggestion that should have worked. A good learning experience.BigGrin

Thanks & regards -- Richard
Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
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H0RayF
Offline H0  
#20 Posted : 09 May 2015 18:35:24(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi!

These modern Telex couplers require special decoder settings to prevent them from permanent activation with "full juice". Maybe not a bad sign that it survived the 45 second degaussing.

Maybe the degaussing should be done with decreasing AC voltage - and surely for a limited period.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline RayF  
#21 Posted : 09 May 2015 22:17:42(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Richard,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm sorry it resulted in the destruction of the coil. I guess it cannot sustain the current required to degauss it for long enough, so it is worth remembering that this method will not work.

Let us know how it goes with the new Marklin couplers.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline DumbGuy  
#22 Posted : 10 May 2015 00:35:30(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Hi!

Maybe the degaussing should be done with decreasing AC voltage - and surely for a limited period.


Hi Ray & HO,

At the risk of TMI, I “sort of” tried HO’s approach during my degaussing attempt described earlier. My intervals up to 30 seconds first used constant accessory power from the transformer. Since the coupler remained magnetized, I changed to variable track power, increasing and decreasing voltage during several more 30 second intervals. I even tried applying a few higher voltage reverse-pulses during some of them. The coupler survived those trials, but remained magnetized.

After that variety of 30 second trials, I returned to using constant accessory power, increasing the interval in 5 second steps until burnout occurred at the magic 50 second level. I obviously over-stressed the coupler.

‘Nuff said. I’ll post a final update once I’ve installed the Marklin replacements.

Take care -- Richard

Edited by user 10 May 2015 15:31:16(UTC)  | Reason: revise end

Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DumbGuy
H0
Offline DumbGuy  
#23 Posted : 17 May 2015 02:46:58(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post

Let us know how it goes with the new Marklin couplers.


Final Update: M-117993 Retrofit on my BR 75 . . . . .


Installed easily and works like a charm! The BR 75 now has a Telex close-coupler on the rear, and a non-Telex coupler on the front (photo attached). It will normally run in the forward direction with the Telex connecting to close-coupled cars. By switching its on-track travel direction, I’ll also have the flexibility to haul cars (in reverse) that have older Relex couplers.

I’ll reserve the 2nd Telex that came in the Marklin retrofit set to install on the rear of another loco (probably a nice BR 64) so I can use it with the same flexibility as the BR 75 now has. But at my current skill level, that’s a project I’ll postpone until I gain much more comfort with CVs, function changes, decoder connections, etc.

For more challenging fun, I’ll continue to look for & carefully try alternate ways to non-destructively demagnetize the one otherwise functional Roco Telex of the two that I removed. I’ll post here if I ever find a degaussing method that works. Advice still appreciated.

All-in-all, I’m quite happy with the outcome, and may be now just a tiny bit less “Dumb”.

Regards -- Richard

Options and Aesthetics: I have several locomotives with OEM Telex couplers – both old-style and new-style. I like them a lot. For locos without Telex, I use K83-controlled uncoupling tracks. Aesthetics -- Though it does function well, the retrofit’s appearance is bulky (right side of the photo) when compared with OEM, especially on a small loco like the BR 75.
DumbGuy attached the following image(s):
# BR 75 Telex = M-117993.JPG
Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DumbGuy
Offline H0  
#24 Posted : 17 May 2015 07:43:30(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: DumbGuy Go to Quoted Post
For more challenging fun, I’ll continue to look for & carefully try alternate ways to non-destructively demagnetize the one otherwise functional Roco Telex of the two that I removed.
Maybe you shouldn't blame Roco.

Here's a site that shows the couplers I know from Roco - completely different from the couplers you got:
http://www.mbla.de/index...ot-4-0/c-999014/a-SET%20$87

Here's a site that shows couplers from Krois:
http://www.krois-modell.at/produkt/digikupp/h0/
Krois write that standard Märklin couplers are not compatible with Krois couplers, but they offer brass loops that can replace the iron loops on Märklin couplers to make them compatible.

It could be that you got Krois couplers and that the magnetization is by design.

In my experience the Roco digital couplers work better than the Märklin 117993 type. No own experience with the Krois type.

See also:
https://www.marklin-user...-coupler.aspx#post384273
https://www.marklin-user...-coupler.aspx#post387995
https://www.marklin-user...couplers.aspx#post305741
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline Chook  
#25 Posted : 17 May 2015 08:00:41(UTC)
Chook

Australia   
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 234
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Richard I was in a previous life a radio and TV tech and when the first colour sets came in they were more susceptible to stray magnetics than the old black and white sets.
We could manually degauss them when required with a hand held degausing wand which was placed about 2cm from the screen and rotated slowly in an expanding circle. While still turned on we would then walk backwards away from the set and switch off. I also used the same method for demagnetising audio cassette recorder heads and reel to reel tape decks.
Essentially you not only require a rising and falling magnetic field (AC power) but also a decreasing one.
And to demagnetise a screw driver I give it a good "wack" on my metal vise.


Regards....Chook.
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Offline H0  
#26 Posted : 17 May 2015 08:27:54(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Chook Go to Quoted Post
Essentially you not only require a rising and falling magnetic field (AC power) but also a decreasing one.
Yes. And if the coupler has a permanent magnet inside then degaussing will never work (or will leave the coupler unusable).

If these are Krois couplers then I assume the magnetization is by design and Märklin couplers cannot be used.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline RayF  
#27 Posted : 17 May 2015 12:08:09(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
This has been an interesting and informative discussion on magnetization and demagnetization. Like Chook I also worked in radio and TV engineering.

The degaussing of magnetic heads on tape recorders was an art in itself, and worked best as Chook describes, by pulling the degausser away from the machine slowly.

TV monitors were degaussed automatically when they were switched on by a special set of coils placed behind the cathode ray tube which produced a strong oscillating field that died gradually away. It was difficult to replicate this effect with a manual degaussing tool, and though I tried many times I could never get a "clean" screen.

Back to the topic of the couplers, I agree with Tom that if the couplers contain permanent magnets then this is by design and no amount of degaussing will work.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline DumbGuy  
#28 Posted : 17 May 2015 17:23:01(UTC)
DumbGuy

United States   
Joined: 25/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 194
Location: Tennessee, USA
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Hi!
Originally Posted by: DumbGuy Go to Quoted Post
For more challenging fun, I’ll continue to look for & carefully try alternate ways to non-destructively demagnetize the one otherwise functional Roco Telex of the two that I removed.
Maybe you shouldn't blame Roco.

Here's a site that shows the couplers I know from Roco - completely different from the couplers you got:
http://www.mbla.de/index...ot-4-0/c-999014/a-SET%20$87

Here's a site that shows couplers from Krois:
http://www.krois-modell.at/produkt/digikupp/h0/
Krois write that standard Märklin couplers are not compatible with Krois couplers, but they offer brass loops that can replace the iron loops on Märklin couplers to make them compatible.

It could be that you got Krois couplers and that the magnetization is by design.


Hello HO,

From the vendor descriptions & photos at your referenced sites, the couplers I removed are definitely from Krols. Since Krols makes them permanently magnetized, my degaussing attempts are over! If I ever try to reuse the good one remaining, brass coupler loops appear to be the simple solution. Thanks to all for solving my maker-mystery.

As for the 117993's performance, it couples and uncouples smoothly, with no unintended drops even when tested pulling a fairly long ten car consist through a variety of curves & switches. As expected, it does not work with Relex-coupled cars. From your recommendation for Roco's version, however, I'll try a set should I get itchy later for more Telex retrofits. Costs appear comparable with the Marklin sets.

Thanks again -- Richard
Long-time analog user, collector & tinkerer.
Discovered digital & began conversion a few years ago.
C-Track, CS2 Carpetbahn built, taken-down, rebuilt, etc.
Username reflects how much I still have to learn.
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